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chris convertible

Wheels, Tyres and suspension needed

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Hi guys,

 

Last Thursday was the first day it rained after my son got his P's the week before. He lost it on a corner, spun around and smashed the drivers side into on of those fairly high gutters Red Hill has. Luckily no-one was hurt and no other cars involved and hopefully he learnt a valuable lesson about how slippery the roads can be. I took it to Chris at Inline to check it out and the damage is

 

1, Badly dented rim with a twist.

2. Bent Control Arm.

3. Bent Knuckle.

4. Damaged plastic bits underneath and slightly bent front guard.

 

Chris said it needs a new wheel and as I will never match what I have I should get 4. He also said it needs a new control arm, knuckle, wheel bearing assembly etc. which if I am lucky I can source secondhand. He said most people seem to smash the left side rather than spin right around and smash the right so I might be lucky and e able to get the right side off another damaged car.

 

For info my car is a Blue S13 Convertible 1988 CA18DET that some of you might have seen around. I was told it as one of the first off the production line, maybe this is wrong but I was told 10th. It has 68mm hubs and slightly smaller brake rotors than later CA18DET's. So hopefully the suspension parts are not different.

 

So my questions are;

 

1. Does anyone have and nice straight Right Hand Side suspension parts I can buy?

 

2. Advice on wheel sizes. I have/had 16 by 7 which seem to suit the car however it seems more people have 17's. Are 17's easier to get tyres for? What about grip? I read that a car fitted with 15's actually has more grip than the same car with 16's and lower profile tyres. If that is true does that mean 17's have even less? Any views on 15's 16's or 17's apart from looks?

 

3. What about wheel width? Do wider tyres have more or less grip? Sure wider looks nicer. With stock guards and not rolling etc. what can fit?

 

4. Is it legal on S13's to have different width wheels. For example (assuming they would fit) fitting 16 by 7 on the front and 16 by 8 or 9 on the back be OK? I have heard of Staggered fitting but am not sure if it is legal or sensible or not.

 

Any Brand/Model wheels. Calling around and Googling I have found That King make a wheel called Sabeth in 17 that fits my PCD of 114.3 by 4 and I can buy it from JaxQuickfit. XXR make a fair few in 114.3 as well which Ozzy Tyres in Fyshwick stock and Rota have a few wheels in 114.3 as well that look nice. Reading reviews it appears XXR seem cheap but reasonably good wheels, same as Rota, however King wheels don't come up hardly at all. Does anyone have experience with any of these brands and can recommend them or not?

 

4. Lastly any Brand/Model tyre anyone likes that has lots of grip. I still have pretty good tread on my Goodyear Eagle 2's and Federal Evo 595's but chances are I am going to end up with different sized wheels anyway, plus I want as much wet weather grip as I can get. I don't want a repeat of what happened last week.

 

Thanks

Chris

Edited by chris convertible

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I thought staggering the width was legal as long as it isn't more then 2inches wider then stock? Also just went to put 225/55/r17 wheels on my rears and they were to wide for stock guards, unless you run more camber.

 

I have a front left hub :( wish I could help!I have some control arms and rods but need them for rego in the coming weeks.

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Chris said it needs a new wheel and as I will never match what I have I should get 4. He also said it needs a new control arm, knuckle, wheel bearing assembly etc

 

Depending on how bad the damage to the bearing/hub assembly is, the bearings can be pressed out and replaced.

 

2. Advice on wheel sizes. I have/had 16 by 7 which seem to suit the car however it seems more people have 17's. Are 17's easier to get tyres for? What about grip? I read that a car fitted with 15's actually has more grip than the same car with 16's and lower profile tyres. If that is true does that mean 17's have even less? Any views on 15's 16's or 17's apart from looks?

 

3. What about wheel width? Do wider tyres have more or less grip? Sure wider looks nicer. With stock guards and not rolling etc. what can fit?

 

Wide wheels = more grip as there is more surface area contacting the road, but rediculous amounts of stretch negates this. Others who know more will throw in their 2c, but generally high profile tyres will give you a better ride at the cost of handling, lower profile handle better as there is less flex in the sidewall of the tyre. Get too low of a profile and the ride quality may be worse. It's all about trade-off and compromise. 17's will generally handle better though, and are very common now, probably easier and generally cheaper to get tyres for.

 

Your example about the car with 15's is a bit vague as there is no mention of profile, wheel width, other suspension components etc... It all comes down to your individual setup.

 

Somebody should be able to provide some info on offsets and widths to work with stock guards. You're probably looking at a 7 +40 if you want to be very conservative.

 

4. Is it legal on S13's to have different width wheels. For example (assuming they would fit) fitting 16 by 7 on the front and 16 by 8 or 9 on the back be OK? I have heard of Staggered fitting but am not sure if it is legal or sensible or not.

 

As long as each pairing (front/back) is the same it is fine. This goes the same for tyres too.

 

 

Any Brand/Model wheels. Calling around and Googling I have found That King make a wheel called Sabeth in 17 that fits my PCD of 114.3 by 4 and I can buy it from JaxQuickfit. XXR make a fair few in 114.3 as well which Ozzy Tyres in Fyshwick stock and Rota have a few wheels in 114.3 as well that look nice. Reading reviews it appears XXR seem cheap but reasonably good wheels, same as Rota, however King wheels don't come up hardly at all. Does anyone have experience with any of these brands and can recommend them or not?

 

The PCD used by Nissan is very common, and you really wouldn't have any trouble finding a decent set of second hand wheels. They are both cheap brands. Again, depends on what you want to use the car for.

 

4. Lastly any Brand/Model tyre anyone likes that has lots of grip. I still have pretty good tread on my Goodyear Eagle 2's and Federal Evo 595's but chances are I am going to end up with different sized wheels anyway, plus I want as much wet weather grip as I can get. I don't want a repeat of what happened last week.

 

Depends on what you want to use it for. If you're just dailying it and you have some cash, I've heard good things about the Bridgestone RE002. Having said that, I learned my lesson in exactly the same way. High grip tyres should not be the deciding factor in whether or not a wet weather accident happens.

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Also just went to put 225/55/r17 wheels on my rears and they were to wide for stock guards, unless you run more camber.

 

Kinda useless without knowing your offset and width. I run this on 9.5 +35 rims and have no problems with rolled guards.

Edited by _R_J_K_

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Thanks for the replies.

 

The example of 15's with more grip was on a BMW E18 website I was reading when reviewing Rota wheels. Stock on that car was 15 and someone said fitting Rota RB 16's gave less tyre on the road and everyone else seemed to agree. I fund it confusing as to me the things that would affect the amount of rubber on the road would be the overall diameter of the tyre (which should not change if you change tyre profiles correctly), weight of the car causing the tyre to squash a bit to the road (which also shouldn't change), flexibility/softness of the rubber which is more related to the tyre than wheel size. But that is my thoughts without anything to back it up.

 

Reason I asked about Staggered was that when I was 19 I bought an Escort Van with RS2000 engine that the previous owner had fitted 6 at the front and 7 at the back, I didn't realise until nearly a year later when I went to Dickson for the yearly check and they told me they just be the same width so to pass I had to get two new wheels. So either the law's have changed or they were just being bastards (times have not changed), either way I have horrible memories of having to go there each year and want to avoid the place as much as possible. Now you only have to go when being defected I want my car looking nice and legal at RBT's etc.

 

I had a look though the CA18 sales brochure, K's and HICAS-II Q's were fitted with 195/60R15 and non HICAS-II Q's and Convertibles with 185/70R14. I have no idea why the Convertible with turbo had the Q wheels, I expect it was probably cost saving rather than anything else as the Convertible would have cost a lot to produce seeing they were sort of hand made.

 

I was told at Ozzy when looking at the XXR wheels that I can go up two inches from what the car had as new so can go from 15 which Silvia's came with to 17. I expect no-one would really know the convertible only had 14's unless they have an original brochure (which I doubt hardly anyone else has) so 17's seems like a good plan as they are more common and hopefully easier to get tyre's for.

 

There seems to be a stack more 5 stud wheels but you are right that 114.3 is reasonably common so I should be able to find some second hand 4 stud ones. However does anyone know how much a 5 stud conversion costs and whether it is worth it?

 

Main thing I like about Rota wheels compared to XXR and King is that they only have 4 holes and not 8. XXR and King seem to make all their wheels to fit both 100 and 114.3. Any views on those wheel brands and am I being stupid not liking extra holes?

 

I agree driver experience and speed is probably just as much an issue as tyre grip in the wet .

 

Thanks

Chris

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reviewing Rota wheels.

 

A website that reviews Rotas is probably the first problem there. They are regarded as a cheap knockoff brand that takes other companies designs and are not of great quality. They will do you fine for daily driving though.

 

Reason I asked about Staggered was that when I was 19 I bought an Escort Van with RS2000 engine that the previous owner had fitted 6 at the front and 7 at the back, I didn't realise until nearly a year later when I went to Dickson for the yearly check and they told me they just be the same width so to pass I had to get two new wheels. So either the law's have changed or they were just being bastards (times have not changed), either way I have horrible memories of having to go there each year and want to avoid the place as much as possible. Now you only have to go when being defected I want my car looking nice and legal at RBT's etc.

 

Much of a muchness really. I've been through RBTs with 8.5 and 9.5 staggered with stretch and have never had any problems. Keep it looking subtle and you will be fine.

 

I was told at Ozzy when looking at the XXR wheels that I can go up two inches from what the car had as new so can go from 15 which Silvia's came with to 17. I expect no-one would really know the convertible only had 14's unless they have an original brochure (which I doubt hardly anyone else has) so 17's seems like a good plan as they are more common and hopefully easier to get tyre's for.

 

Technically if it's not listed on your tyre placard it's illegal. Again, much of a muchness, I think you could go to 17's without raising an eyebrow.

 

There seems to be a stack more 5 stud wheels but you are right that 114.3 is reasonably common so I should be able to find some second hand 4 stud ones. However does anyone know how much a 5 stud conversion costs and whether it is worth it?

 

Maybe $400 or $500 for a complete conversion if you do it yourself. Not really worth it unless you're looking for brake clearance or looking to fit a specific wheel. You will also notice that most 5 stud wheels come in 17"+. There's nothing wrong with 4 stud, plenty of the members here run it.

 

Main thing I like about Rota wheels compared to XXR and King is that they only have 4 holes and not 8. XXR and King seem to make all their wheels to fit both 100 and 114.3. Any views on those wheel brands and am I being stupid not liking extra holes?

 

Thing about 8 holes is up to you really. For dailying they will be fine, but these brands are not regarded highly at all as performance wheels.

 

You really need to step back and ask yourself what you want to do with the car. Unless you're tracking it often enough, stick with the 4 stud and what you've got and buy whatever wheel you like. I think I've seen your car before and I doubt it would really get defected based on what you've said you want to buy.

Edited by _R_J_K_

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Wheels: 17inch wheels should suit your car, and since 15's were available from factory (on other variants) 2 inchs up will be fine. Rotas and XXR's are fine, cheap and cast but fine as long as they are treated normally. There are plenty of places to buy them online for a better deal than ozzy etc.

 

Tyres: In regards to grip, the biggest factor will always be tyre design. Buying a good quality tyre in whatever size you need will always put you in good stead. Think federal 595 range, bridgestone potenza's, kumho ku31, and others in michelin/dunlop etc.

Width does not always equal grip either, especially in wet conditions as the tyre has to expel the water from the centre of the contact patch. This is one of the reasons why a car can be over-tyred, that is, wider tyres than it really needs. Even in dry conditions having a super wide tyre can be detrimental to handling.

For a car like yours, a 225 section tyre should be heaps. Personally I like having same size tyres (and brand/model for that matter) on each corner to keep the car well balanced.

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Ken is on the money.

 

Check out Next Level Motoring for the best deals on XXRs. Most of the 4x114.3 range will have been designed around the 240SX so should your car well. These guys post very fast, delivery within a week is common. Like others have said they do the job for daily use, I've been using Rotas and XXRs on drift cars for years and haven't bent one yet.

 

5 stud conversion is pointless for your needs.

 

Tyres, Again Ken recommends KU31s, I found these to have excellent wet weather bite. Avoid Achillies. 225/45r17 will be a fairly cheap tyre size (235 even cheaper) and 17s will generally be cheaper than 16s, and have more size availability for the performance models.

 

BOOK YOUR SON INTO A SKIDPAN DAY!!! I can't stress this enough, they are cheap and a great way to learn how to control a car in wet conditions. Your son will learn valuable lessons about front push understeer and how to avoid it, and also how to control oversteer and minimise it. An able driver on bald tyres is much better than an unable driver on new tyres.

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Thanks guys, the first it of good news is I have got the bent suspension replacement parts from Trojan in Mitchel.

 

Still trying to make up my mind about wheels.

 

I did look at Next Level Motoring for XXR and they have a great range, glad to here they post here without any issues. I was worried there might be issues of the wheels not having some ADR stamp or something.

 

I have also found some reasonable Rota wheels on Rotawheels.com.au in WA and Rotaaustralia.om.au in Brisbane. Anyone dealt with either of those?

 

I did book him in for a skid pan day. He did it on saturday the 30th a week after he got his licence and then on the 5th less than a week later this happens. His only comment when I said "this is what the course was supposed to avoid" was "but on the course you are expecting it and the car slid much faster on the road than the skid pan". But I plan to book us both into a skid pan day soon. I talked to 5th gear who he did the one aimed at P-platers with and the said they are happy to have two peopel with one car and put us apart so we oth get the same go as if we turned up on our own. I think I would really enjoy it and hopefully he might learn something the second time around.

Edited by chris convertible

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I believe Option 1 Garage in Brisbane are a distributor for Rota. I've had good dealings with them before. They also stock a range of tyres (not sure how big anymore, just email them to ask), so you might possibly be able to kill two birds with one stone and get them fitted and balanced in Brisbane and have them both sent down as one.

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Going 2inches bigger on wheel size is fine but the tyre profile will need to be lower to keep the same rolling diameter. Staggered fitment is okay as long as the track is no more than 15mm bigger than what is stated on the tyre placard. ( I have read through VSB 14 many times and have spent much time with the boys at dickson getting the rules straight)

Choice of tyres is a little bit of a personal thing and a bit of a budget thing, I have found through personal experience that Federals have brilliant dry grip but got a bit slippery in the wet.

I haven't tried many of the more expensive brands but I do currently run Bridgestone Potenza RE002s on my RX7, great dry grip and equally great wet grip, also not too bad on price either. I also previously ran these on my evo with great success (AWD helped wet weather grip a little in the evo)

The boys are on the money for tyre prices, I had 17s on the evo, got 16s on the RX7, same brand and model tyre, 17s were cheaper! I guess there is just more cars running 17s now.

Just my 2c, Hope it helps a little.

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Hi Guys,

 

Thanks for all your advice and help.

 

The car had more damage than expected, the car was overheating on the way to Inline, I found a split in the top radiator hose next to the clamp, I waited for it to cool down, taped it up with some electrical tape, topped it up with 4 litre of water I had on me and ordered a radiator hose from Lennock.

 

Then last weekend after the hose arrived I fitted it, flushed out the system a few times until the water was nice and clean, filled it with coolant and went to put some coolant in the overflow bottle but though it looked nasty and dirty so took it off and took it inside. I used a mix of vinegar and bi carb of soda to clean it and after a few goes and using an old toothbrush got it looking almost as good as it probably did when new. Went outside with my very clean overflow bottle feeling rather pleased with myself to see the driveway covered in coolant. Had a good look the water pump is leaking very badly, I expect the only thing that was stopping it from leaking was years of dirt and rust.

 

Any back to the suspension - I ordered the replacement parts for the suspension though Trojan which was supposed to arrive over a week ago, however the courier lost it. After a week of the supplier in Sydney negotiating with the courier they are paying for the parts, however that supplier didn't have any others. So now another lot is being sent from another place - hopefully the courier will not lose this lot. I also ordered a new water pump and timing belt etc. which have arrived so the car which has done 193,000km will be basically getting its 200,000 service with new water pump etc.

 

I have also ordered Rota Grids in 17 by 8 with +30 offset from Option1. I am hoping they fit nicely in the guards, both Option1 and Trojan say they will - I think they will be basically flush with the body so hopefully just OK, but should look nice. I used willtheyfit.com to play about with various wheel options. Certainly a good website to check out. Reason for no tyres from Option 1 was he shipping went up by $90 (tyres actually weigh more than the rims) and I thought might as well give Trojan more business for all their hassles trying to source suspension twice.

 

So the plan is to take the Rota's up to Trojan when they arrive for them to fit tyres on, and fit the suspension when it arrives, currently just hoping neither gets lost like the first knuckle and control arm. Anyway due to Christmas and couriers being busy I am not expecting to have a working car again for a week or so.

 

Initially when I was posting up I didn't bother mentioning the radiator hose thinking it was just bad luck but I am fairly certain the side ways shock to the car probably damaged the top hose as the engine probably shifted sideways enough to stretch and damage it. Amazing how much damage can be done in an accident without any body damage.

 

I had Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3's on the front and Federal 595 EVO's on the back. The Federals certainly slipped a lot more than the Goodyear's which is why my son spun the car. Trojan said out the 595's the EVO's were the worst in the rain but great in the dry. I loved the Goodyear GS-D3's even though they were very expensive in 16's but they stupidly discontinued them. Anyway have not gone staggered and unlike before where my wheels could not be swapped front to back I will be able to rotate the tyres to even out the wear and plan to try keep the same tyres all around from now on. Thanks everyone for advice on the heels and tyres etc.

 

Cheers

Chris

Edited by chris convertible

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Just a heads up, if you ever need genuine nissan parts, especially import parts, give me a yell, I work at Nissan and can give you a good price!

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Latest Story on my car.

 

Firstly suspension Trojan ordered got lot by the courier, had to arrange some more which didn't arrive until after Christmas.

I ordered Rota wheels though Option 1 based on what the distributor said they had in stock, but they didn't turn up. Told sorry they are on back order.

Wait until end of January and then get told sorry they forgot to get the order in so those wheels were not on the ship.

Order Koyas instead and wait for them to be drilled and powder coated.

Take car to Trojan and John fixes everything which also includes new tyres, timing belt etc. costing a stack of money but hope to have a reliable car.

 

In the meantime I had Hertz speakers and amp fitted which sound great.

 

I get the car back yesterday and my son wants to visit his mates to show them the new wheels, they go to Hume and he smashes it into another gutter, this time causing much more damage than before. As you can guess I am extremely pissed off. I dId not even get to drive the car apart from home from Trojan. This weekend I planned to wash and polish it to take photos with the new wheels to show people, but it had to be towed to NRMA's holding yard while they process the claim.

 

Obviously I am banning from driving the car but I am also thinking of selling it.

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Also while the Silvia was out of action he went out with friends in our Subaru outback. It is a 2002 model with 225,000 and still on the original clutch so I was expecting it to go at some stage but it went while he was driving it. He says he was driving normally but I did expect to feel some slip or something myself before it died completely and needed to be towed. I expect he drove it very hard for it to die so quickly which is very annoying as it means we went from 2 cars to zero while the outback was being fixed.

 

I expect the car is repairable but will not be cheap, even with insurance the excess will be high due to the under 25 driver.

 

Really if I sell it I am only likely to get what I have spent on it since my son got his licence a couple of months ago so I might have been better off just giving it away before he did. Over the years since I bought the car I spent a lot of money on it to try make it feel like a new car, manual gearbox conversion new paint job, new roof in mohair, new top quality Scottish leather interior and the dash custom wood grained. I gave up counting when it reached $40,000.

 

I feel sorry for my son as he really likes the car, I bought it when he first started Kindergarten 13 years ago to have a car to drop him off at school and he feels it has been his special sports car for as long as he can remember. But I can not trust him in it anymore and my wife understandably really wants me to sell it.

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You sound like you've been very nice about it. I don't know if I would have given him a second chance with it so quickly. I don't have kids myself yet but I reckon the best car to learn in would be something equivalent to what I had. A cheap n13 pulsar with heaps of kms on it. Starting off with no power and FWD is a good place to start, I reckon. Then upgrade a few years later.

 

It seems unfair to me that you would have to sell the s13 cos it sounds like you've loved it a long time. I guess it depends on your finances but maybe just buy him a $1000 car, or even better, make him work and save up for a $1000 car so that he appreciates it more. And ban him from using the s13 for quite a long time until he's a proven driver. There's really no way he could possibly believe you're being unfair given that he's smashed up your baby twice and possibly flogged the clutch to death on your other car.

 

You are far more patient than most people would be.

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Oh yeah and check out the facebook group "Tyson's cars, bikes, trucks etc..." for cheap cars to buy him. Sometimes I see something like a 2000 lancer with 160,000kms on it for $1000. I can't believe how cheap the low end cars are on there. That or allclassifieds. Pulsars or lancers or corollas or civics are the way to go, I reckon.

 

I had an n13 1.6L sedan for 7 years and I had to buy it myself with a loan from my parents (interest free) and I learned to service it and fix it when it broke and it was still going when i bought my 180sx and I eventually sold it for $300 with something like 320,000kms on it haha.

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I also started with a pulsar till it got hit bad, good choice for a cheap run around car!

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Yes Pulsars are good cars. I had an MX5 until my son was born, sold it to buy a N15 Pulsar which I kept for 4 years before buying the Silvia. I found the Pulsar a bit light in feel and was a bit worried how it would stand up in an accident, but it was cheap to run and went very well.

 

Anyway he has ben banned from taking any car out until the end of the year. He can drive the Subaru with either my wife or me in the passenger seat - like a learner. Once the Silvia is fixed it will be put on Classic car insurance with NRMA which restricts iI to me as the driver and under 9,000km a year, which is fine as that is all I do anyway. Due to the saving on the insurance he will not drive the car again unless after next year when he finishes school he gets a job, buys it off me and pays for the insurance and all repairs.

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Agreed. Sounds fair to me. How much cheaper is that insurance? How bad is the damage this time?

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Still no news on the car from the repairer so still waiting to find out what they are going to do. The damage this time is the front wheel folded right underneath the car however it might be only the same parts damaged. I am assuming the strut is damaged this time and the steering rack but that is from looking at it in the dark with the tow truck driver.

 

To give an idea of the insurance difference my current policy without my son is $589 with a value of 10,000 (based on an add for a convertible I found to give them) but with a $1500 excess I chose to reduce the premium. On classic insurance after seeing my car for $410 the would agree to a value of $15,000 with a $300 excess. So cheaper with a much lower excess and a higher value.

 

The rules for NRMA classic insurance is you must have a daily driver car on full insurance with them, the car must be over 25 years old, the drivers must be nominated and over 25 years old and car cannot do more than 9,000km a year. The other thing that is nice is if the car is older than 1980 if it is written off they give you both agreed value minus the excess and you keep the wreck free.

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Hi guys,

 

The saga continues.

 

Finally get the car back after lots of couriers losing parts, wreckers sending wrong side etc. The damage this time was a bend in the front guard, cracked front bar, bent steering rack, bent front cross member, bent knuckle, lower control arm and wheel.

 

Within one hour of getting the car back a heater hose blows and water is pouring out of the car quicker than I can fill the radiator. I take it back to Craig Hall (at that time I was still under the impression NRMA would pay for the repairs) and they say no problems we can fix that. 6 weeks later they call me to say we have replaced your hoses and there were a lot more gone that we thought but can you come in for a chat. The final result is your head gasket is stuffed, water is getting into the bores so we think you should take the car home and think about it. They say the problem with 25 year old cars is once you open up the engine to replace the head gasket you don’t know what else you will find. I pay them the bill of $1440 for replacing all the silly hoses the CA18DET has under the Plenum and drive it home. It goes nicely but water is bubbling about and coming out of the over flow so I think they are certainly right about the blown head gasket.

 

I had hassles with the insurance. NRMA paid me based on the quotes given to them by Craig Hall, however what was quoted to NRMA and me were completely different and Craig Hall are basically saying we did a great job, you should be happy so suck it up. I agree they did a great job but there is a big difference in the price and I think NRMA should pay for a lot more damage than Craig Hall thinks they should pay for. I have sent NRMA copies of the receipts for what I paid but have not heard back from them. Not sure if I will and really it doesn’t really matter to my plans as I still want a car that works.

 

To sum up after 2 P plater accidents, 7 months and $14,000 out of pocket my car is finally back at home but not really drive-able.

 

I am thinking of removing the engine and doing work myself on it. Seeing I have all new hoses, new water pump, new timing belt, thermostat etc. I was also thinking on possibly just doing the removal and fitting myself and sending it to Lewis Motors in Adelaide, however currently on EBay is a CA18DET that has been rebuilt with fully forged pistons etc. by Trapnell. I have contracted Trapnell and they remember the engine and said it is extremely well built and could easily handle over 400kw.

 

What I want is a stock looking car, no big front intercooler, nice stock plastic intercooler pipes and low mount turbo so when the bonnet is opened it looks like it does now – just like it did when it left the Factory in 1988.

 

If I buy the EBay motor then I think I would need to swap all the intake and exhaust stuff off my engine as it looks like that is not on the engine in the pictures.

 

While doing that would you recommend keeping my 25 year old turbo or buying a new one?

If new what turbo would you recommend that would bolt straight on without fabrication?

What level of boost can be run with the standard intercooler, plastic piping and computer setup?

Would the car need tuning etc. afterwards?

 

I know it seems a bit of a waste of a 400kw forged engine to run it similar to stock but hopefully it would last a long time.

 

Any other thoughts?

 

Thanks

Chris

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To answer your questions:

  • 25 years is a long time. Depends how you feel about having to replace the turbo? In a rush it would only be a 1 hour job. Doing it carefully, maybe 1 whole day.
  • When I had a CA18DET in my Silvia, I bought a Nissan T28BB turbo, second hand from an import. It bolts straight on and I think it makes plenty of power (for me). I didn't end up using it but I put it on my S14 SR20. I prefer most factory engine parts for reliability however I would definitely change the turbo and oil water lines while it is out.
  • I think somewhere between 10-12psi or upto 0.8bar.
  • Would be nice to tune the car. You could get different injectors and a 2nd hand Nistune. I think if you run factory boost of 10psi, the computer would be able to cope since it is programmed rich from factory for engine longevity.

 

My thought are if you really wanted to keep the car CA or change to SR. I don't mind CA18DET but the parts are expensive and rare. I can sometimes find good deals with SR20 where as CA's are rare that I accumulated as many parts as I could when I had one. When it came time to sell, it was also worth nothing unless I wanted to wait. If you do end up changing to a SR20, this whole saga could repeat itself and you could be looking at a forged SR20 motor.

 

If this was me, there is no way I could afford to hand over the kind of money you just did these days. I sort of went through this and spent a lot of money on my first car. There was no way I could let it go when the car stopped. It is now in my backyard, waiting for the many thousands of dollars work of work required for it to be up and running again. I ended up changing into a different car that I liked, which I was less attached and have since sold.

Edited by Stinkypoo

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I take it back to Craig Hall (at that time I was still under the impression NRMA would pay for the repairs) and they say no problems we can fix that.

 

The way I'm reading your message is that you are trying to get NRMA to cover the expenses of your hose problems (please correct me if I'm wrong). I have never heard of any insurance company covering repairs on mechanical failure, except in the case of flood damage (which typically writes off the car for a few other reasons too). Those hoses are also probably 25 years old, they're a maintenance item and I doubt you will see anything in relation to the hose problems. There is a good chance that the head gasket popped when your hose burst. It's just coincidental that these problems happened in such close proximity to the accidents.

 

How much is this ebay motor? You will have to budget in install if you can't do it yourself too.

Edited by _R_J_K_

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Stinkypoo - Thanks - yes changing turbo water and oil lines seems like good advice. I agree about the money being forked out - it is driving me crazy - I wish he had crashed it properly the first time and it was a write off.

 

R_J_K Sorry, you did misunderstand because I didn't explain it well. What I meant was I thought that what Craig Hall had charged me for the panel damage part of the repair ($2262) is what they told NRMA so I was going to get that back as part of the accident but they told NRMA $445. All up I paid Craig Hall $6471 for new coilovers, fix exhaust issue, replace bent cross member, steering rack, knuckle, lower control arm, and repair front guard and bumper.

 

The bill was split in two - $2262 for the panel and the rest of $4209. The exhaust was $100 and the coil overs $1800 so I expected to pay for those and NRMA the rest less my excess of $1900 due to an under 25 driver. Therefore from $6471 I thought I would get back about $2671. However after I had paid the bill and taken the car back with the heater hose issue NRMA gave me two different payments - $262 based on suspension quote of $2162 less $1900 excess and $445 for the panel work. As it was almost $2000 less than I was expecting they had made a mistake and taken the excess twice, but they said it was based on Craig Halls quotes, one for $2162 for the suspension repairs and one for $445 for the panel damage.

When I read out the figures from the invoice I paid they said Craig Hall has made a mistake and get them to resubmit the quotes, but Craig Hall refused saying we do quotes first and we don't resubmit if we find more damage.

 

So what I meant was I was happy with the work Craig Hall did and was expecting to get reimbursed for the damage so took the car back there happy with their work, however it was afterwards that NRMA told me what their quotes were and now feel a bit grumpy about how they quote.

 

Regarding the EBay engine it is $3800 and if I get it I am planning on taking my old engine out myself and fitting it myself. After 7 months without a car and riding my pushbike everywhere I don't care it it takes me a couple of months to do it. 30 years ago I helped mates swap old Holden engines and I have probably swapped about 8 of them over a two year period, however that was in the old days when there was no power steering, air conditioning etc. so it was easier. I plan on getting my son to help so he can learn something about cars.

 

With hindsight I probably would have wrecked the car or bought a half cut and slowly fixed it myself by swapping the parts over.

Edited by chris convertible

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Hi,

 

The engine is out. I have posted a few CA18 questions on the Technical section which I hope to get answers from so i can keep going with the job.

 

I really would like to get the car back on the road by Marques in the Park. That is in early November, would be good to make it in the car, anyone else planning on going to it?

 

Cheers

Chris

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