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maxmod

S13 Silvia Sports sedan

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This thing is going to be a serious bit of gear when completed

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I hope so it's costing some serious money!!!

 

When I first came up with the idea to put a 6L in it I was thinking a t56 gearbox a mild engine build with no throttle bodies and running a factory diff.

 

So now it s a holinger a serious dry sumped race engine running individual throttle bodies and a quick change rear end. Needless to say I'm about 3 times higher in the spend than I originally intended to be. Unfortunately there is like 10k worth of aero to be done as well hopefully I can get this down to 2.3 by doing a lot of it myself.

 

I'm adding a few more bars to the cage probably another 6 or so in total that doesn't include the front bars or the rear section ill build just the two front legs of the cage a cross in the foot well and a cross from my main hoop to my rear towers. I might even through a few more in for good measure can never have enough stiffness in an open tin can.

Edited by maxmod

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Looking good!

 

i got my tr6060 gearbox the other week, so i pulled the engine back out, and fitted the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and mated the box to the engine.

 

Also loomed it all up, ready to be all fitted back into the car. (stock headers for now to get it going first)

 

Just waiting on an FPR and some more fuel lines (as the LS3 is a return-less style fuel rail)

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Awesome good to hear how well do the stock headers clear everything are they the right angle a close up photo of how they fit would be good. Could mean all i have to do is modify a set of VE aftermarket headers.

 

Progress shot i had the front bars bent up in 25mm 1.6mm wall Moly they will be welded in tomorrow. I've had the front upper bar bent up as well but it's too hard to hold in place and take a photo.

 

I'm hoping the front will be complete by the end of the week!

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Rails are now cut back, i'll be welding in the cross bar tonight so i'll take pictures of that as well.

 

I've been weighing the items i've cut out and the ones i have put back in.

 

Weight removed 14kg's

 

Weight put back in will be 7kg's.

 

 

I am not sure if the figures are correct but i believe the LS's weight to be around 200kg's and the sr20 to be around 135kg's so i've got another 60kg's to loose up the front end. I won't loose it all but i'll try my best to offset it.

 

I think with a lighter alternator probably 2.2kg's instead of 4-5 that helps.

 

Lighter PS pump

 

Much lighter flywheel 6kg's instead of who knows how heavy probably 20kg's

 

Electric water pump that should save some weight

 

Dry sump system probably will cost me some weight.

 

Intake will probably cost me a bit

 

So i should end up around 50kg's heavier in the front end which isn't the end of the world.

 

My gearbox is lighter than the rb25 package so i'll save that weight overall but it's still at the pointy end of the car.

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Edited by maxmod

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don't want to use an electric ps pump in the boot? will add a little to the rear but save the front.

and the stock flywheel doesn't weigh that much does it?

 

awesome build btw. should be rad when finished

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I'm honestly not sure but i remember lifting an ls1 flywheel and it definetely wasn't light i was just taking a wild guess though so i could be way off.

 

The power steering pump is an option thanks i'll look into it only it probably means i have to run a larger alternator as the race ones are only 55amps with the eletric water pump and everything else it might be a bit much for it. It's also probably not as reliable which would go against what i am aiming for.

 

Thanks for the comments

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According to the US forums an ls1 clutch/flywheel weighs 50 pounds or 22.7kg's

 

My clutch and flywheel weighs 9.7kg's or 22 pounds so thats a pretty good saving, my flywheels a bit on the heavy side too bit pissed off about that. I was hoping it would be around 3-4kg's its 6.5kg's so i might have to take it to jenny craig.

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some ideas to reduce your front end weight

  • rear mount radiator
  • eletric power steering
  • drive shaft driven alternator

i dont know if your race class permits these mods, its what im doing.

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Yeah I'm allowed to do basically anything it's really only body shape and aero that's restricted.

 

A rear mount radiator isn't something I'd like to do with 600bhp and a v8 screaming at 7500rpm I want as much air flow going through the radiator as possible. Obviously it would be possible to duct the rear radiator but this prevents good undercar aero.

 

I think the best solution is just to move the engine back 100-200mm this will make the weight more central combined with lowering the engine with the dry sump setup it should be lower than an sr20 so it should make for a nice package.

 

Once I get the throttle bodies and the dummy engine hopefully in a few weeks ill be able to work out how far back I can go if at all.

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Has anyone had any experience with the driftworks knuckles in circuit? I know they claim they work but manufacturer will claim anything to sell a product.

 

In principle they sound like they would work.

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Has anyone had any experience with the driftworks knuckles in circuit? I know they claim they work but manufacturer will claim anything to sell a product.

 

In principle they sound like they would work.

 

i have a few of their products, not the knuckles. Im not that impressed with the quality or weight factor of thier products. Gk tech knuckles would be a better option.

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I have driftworks knuckles on my one, but i'm yet to finish it haha..

 

Just thought i'd let you know a few issues I've run into with my ls3 swap.

 

i'm not sure what you are doing with your steering rack but...

 

The stock starter motor fouls on the s13 steering rack's universal joints, so you need to get a clockable mini starter or relocated it to the other side.

 

Also the stock headers foul on the s13 steering rack as well.. so i cant fire my car yet.. need to get custom ones made up (which i was going to but i wanted to be able to fire it up beforehand :( )

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I know powered by maxx offered a drop spindle modification of 45mm and you had the option of keeping the standard mounting points or them shortening the tie rod mount for more lock. GKtech's knuckles are all done now though so you could also look at them as they also have the drop spindle and different mounting points for the tie rod including factory specs.

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Thanks Guys,

 

I might look into the gktech ones instead they do look like a nice piece.

 

I am trying to work out the best way to proceed based on the amount of funds i have available at the moment.

 

I can either buy the wheels Forgelines they will be around 6k for 4 OUCH! but this will allow me to proceed with widening the body etc and suspension. Or i can buy the throttle bodies so i can finish positioning the engine and all the necessary hardware.

 

I am leaning towards the engine side of things just because i can start the car without the wheels i can't start the car without the throttles.

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New front radiator support is in, i'm liking the look now it looks less factory and more race car.

 

The green and pink lines are possible new bars once the engines in i will work out how to route them.

 

I'm not sure if people want to see these photo's as i do things or not, not really sure what makes a good build thread i just like seeing the fabrication photo's myself.

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Wow! so you haven't driven this since 2009?!? You must be really itching to get in this and actually enjoy what you've transformed this into.

 

i highly admire the time and $$ spent here, great cage work really keen to see more updates :)

 

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EVERYONE wants to see what your doing and the progress shots of the fab work is a must!

 

esp people planing to do simular thngs :)

 

so keep em coming

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Cheers,

 

Yeah 2009 would have been the last time i drove it, i've been doing the odd track day in one of my dads toys.

 

I honestly enjoy building it and purchasing parts and thinking about ways to improve the car etc as much as i do driving it. There were times i got a bit down about it when my mechanic was building the car. He had a stroke and things came to a hault now i've taken over and im doing everything myself i'm happy with taking my time. I have moved the car into my work factory so after work most nights i just do a couple hours before dinner.

 

It makes doing your car alot easier if you don't have to motivate yourself to drive 20minutes to the factory after work or dinner.

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that really sucks with what happened to your mechanic dude but on it's your hard work and its looking to shape up an awesome machine when its complete :)

 

maybe you can chuck a bed and install a microwave n minni bar in the factory... tell the missus your moving out until it's finished LOL just an idea :D

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Def keep the detailed posts coming mate! Even if it's just little things, I learn a lot from seeing how things come together rather than just seeing the end product. Your car will have more unique fab work than pretty much any other on here, so don't be afraid to show some closeups and inspire the rest of us.

Edited by boost_bus180

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Keep it coming mate! This build is one of my favourites to follow especially the fab work!

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Thanks Guys,

 

Will do i am thinking i am going to cut some towers out of a wrecked car and double the tower tops up. It's too much mucking around to fabricate new tops and the pressing shape makes it difficult. So i think thats the easiest way to go about it.

 

I hope to have the front all done soon as the engine and throttle bodies should be here in the next fortnight or so.

 

I can't wait to see the engine in there and work out where it's going to sit.

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yep defently show fab pics, they are my favourite. its awsomwe to see what people are doing :)

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Dont discount the rear radiator idea. My mechanic has done it to his R33 and even though i told him the positioning of the inlet to feed to core (which are where the tail light went) it worked very well. The engine 26/30 puts out ~ 550rwhp and it sits rock solid at 83c on track at QR national circuit so it has excess capacity in spades. He had a bit over 60/40 weight spilt, now its about 52/48. Bit of effort involved but very very effective.

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Thanks guys I think its probably more effort than its worth at this stage but once its all assembeled I'm sure ill reasses it after getting it corner weighted.

 

It will largely come down where I can get the engine to sit

 

Thanks guys I think its probably more effort than its worth at this stage but once its all assembeled I'm sure ill reasses it after getting it corner weighted.

 

It will largely come down where I can get the engine to sit

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My new presents for myself. I went to Osaka wreckers on saturday and got given a petrol angle grinder and a 4inch and went to work cutting out the strut towers. It took about 15minutes in total.

 

I was hoping to keep as much of the tower as possible but because of all the plates around my strut towers it made it impossible to keep the sides so it's just become a top plate. This doesn't worry me a huge deal at the end of the day thats where all of the forces are going through so increasing the strength in this area is crucial.

 

I also picked up an s15 dash he gave it to me for $200 so i thought why not. I weighed it it came in at 3.8kg's i think i could get this down to around 2-2.5kg's removing alot of structure from the dash. I will leave it as it is for now though that can be the last thing i do incase i don't use it.

 

I also got an s15 rear crossmember and SPL conversion bushes. I did this mainly because the diff i am installing requires extensive modification to the rear subframe and i thought it best i modify the subframe that will give me the most grip.

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The courier just dropped off a long awaited part!

 

Chev to Hollinger bellhousing

 

There was 1 surprise the bellhousing doesn't come close to fitting my 168tooth flywheel i bought from Yella Terra.

 

Que call to Tilton to see what i can do happily they have a solution for me.

 

A 110Tooth flywheel that weighs 2.6kg's woohooo that's more like it. The bellhousing uses a rear start setup as well so i need to get a tilton starter which is fine i didn't have a starter anyway.

 

It also uses the same clutch that i had a 7 1/4" tilton.

 

It's a bit annoying but what can you do atleast it will be lighter i suppose and the yella terra flywheel wasn't super expensive.

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hey buddy progressing nicely.

 

i have an s15 subframe in my one, just a tip, scribe center lines across the 2 faces of the offset bushes so you can use a straight line to align them correctly (the holes go towards the inside of the frame), without having to do the dodgy and cut the collars and reweld them.

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Thanks convieniently spl ones come ore scribbed so you can't go wrong. The only hard parts go g to be deciding how many spacers I should run between the subframe and the chassis.

 

Ok I've been f....ed over when I ordered my bell housing from harrop I requested a bell housing to mount a holinger to chev. The sales guy said he had drawings for a supercar with a chev and would take 4 weeks to make. I said fine and didn't think anything more of it. I've now worked out this is from a late supercar which run an aurora block and a totally different bell housing it's nothing like a chev bell housing. So I think I'll have a fight on my hands to prove it thankfully though the invoice has chev written on it so hopefully they go down easily.

 

I might go in to harrop tomorrow so I can do it face to face and they can't just hang up the phone.

Edited by maxmod

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