Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
keyhole150

Places coolant may leak from

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I've had a slow leak of coolant of the last couple of days but it's become more problematic recently. I've checked both hoses from the rad and they're all fine and tight with no leaks. Unfortunately this is where my knowledge ends of the coolant flow in an SR.

 

The only info I can give you is that the coolant leaks from the front of the engine right where the fan sits. When I got underneath to try identify where it was coming from I noticed it was splashing onto the middle of the sway bar as well. So I guess my question is what sits around that area that would cause it to leak coolant?

 

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

water pump. there is a hole underneath the pump often reffered to as the "I'm fu cked hole" - it leaks out there when the pump is stuffed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SR water pumps have a seal just under where the shaft comes through. That seal generally pops when the coolant system is getting too pressurized (eg. blown headgasket or faulty rad cap). I would be looking there first. Easy to tell if you put your finger under there and it's wet.

 

haha f**ker beat me to it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nissan_2101065F27_2.jpg

 

Can see the hole here.......................^

Edited by Stilvia

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Time to go finger some holes haha. Cheers guys, seems like it's the right spot so I'll confirm after late brekky. What's the go with replacing them? Brand new factory item or is it better to go an aftermarket pump?

Edited by keyhole150

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Genuine are cheap. No point f**king around.

 

Also might want to check what has caused it...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Genuine are cheap. No point f**king around.

 

Also might want to check what has caused it...

 

Thanks for the info, will hit up Taark for one then. No signs of a blown head gasket and I've changed the radiator about a week ago to a brand new alloy one so hopefully this eliminates those two issues. Anything else that I should be checking for?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just to be sure maybe before and/or after you change it if you can get your hands on radiator pressure tester kit you can pressurize the system and see the leak just to confirm the leak or to confirm its fixed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hi mate, if it is your water pump and if you need a new one, i have one for sale

see link...

 

http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?51868-NSW-Nissan-S13-180SX-parts-Water-pump-amp-Rocker-cover-gasket-now-w-pics

 

is the car turbo, it could be leaking fitting on turbo or behind the engine at the firewall, good luck with it...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Other places I've seen coolant leak out of are the thermostat housing, and the block that the thermostat housing bolts to (this piece bolts to the block), both of these are only sealed with liquid gasket. On a 14/15 SR20 there is a water jacket in the intake manifold, and one of the bolt holes intersects with the jacket, so somethimes a bit of liquid gasket on/around that one bolt isn't a bad idea.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my opinion get the pump from Nissan in the USA. It was $55 AUD plus $37 shipping. Got here in 6 days or so. Get them to supply a new geniune thermostat, gaskets, etc at the same time as it won't increase your postage costs. All up for pump (don't forget new fan studs), gaskets, thermostat and a new rear main seal (i did a manual conversion at the same time), was around $112 shipped. Nissan wanted $140 for the pump here, and i think $40+ for the rear main seal.

 

 

http://www.ebay.com....=item4d078bc615

 

(Note that is the S14 pump, the S13 pump is different, has one less bolt hole, but its also on their items list)

Edited by spectral

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

can't bursons or sprint's or whatever auto shop you have supply an aftermarket one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First eliminate radiator cap/overflow issue. Some cheap alloy rads come with shit caps.

Don't forget to check for electrolysis in coolant system. An alloy radiator should be electrically isolated from the car. Heard of people grounding their alloy rad and it not lasting two weeks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×