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Mase

Circuit S13 Silvia, SR20DET

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Kemp we had a discussion a few posts up about surge tanks post 44, 51,52,53. The car has one enclosed in the boot with the 044 external pump also attached to it. Walbro lift pump.

 

Having experience with E85 did you do anything to protect the cables feeding the in tank pump?

 

 

Also, where was the gold mine? I've been to a few mine sites in my travels Moro, Bulolo and a few locations in the Western Highlands.

Edited by Mase

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oh yeah thats right

been following a few different builds on here and im getting them mixed up and cant remember which one is which

 

i didnt do any thing to protect the cables

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After a fair bit of researching i've bought myself a new seat. I have struggled to find a seat with the harness holes tall enough, FIA approved, HANS compatable, road usable and still wide enough to fit my fat ass.

 

I had taken it down to 3 choices: Velo podium 2, $1170 del with rail, Sparco Rev 2 plus $850-950, OMP ARS $805 del

 

I ended up going with the OMP as the Sparco was tall enough, but not wide enough and the Velo although i'm sure a better seat, not $305 extra worth and it wasn't HANS compatable. The OMP also included aluminium FIA mounting rails, whereas the others had steel.

HA774-ARS-black.jpg

Edited by Mase

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Holidays are almost here and I've already made it clear to the missus there will be no home reno's happening this holiday, it's all about the car!

 

Anyway latest bits and bobs

 

RPF1 17 x 10 +18 all round

Under fender braces

Saber saw to put the car on a diet

 

My seat arrived, it didn't have five years on the FIA date, not even close, so I eventually received a part refund. Either way I don't recommend dealing with ybracing ( in the U.K) as it was a battle every part of the way when their ad clearly states the seat came with five years on it.

 

Plans for the holidays: get the wiring finished, tack the cooler piping together and take it to ECC to tig up, get the seat rails in and braced, fill all oils up and hopefully start the car. If I can get the car started by the end I'll be pretty happy.

 

The goals on the car have changed, it's now just slap it together so I can race when I'm back in the country, then fix things up slowly as time goes by to the standard I want and eventually register it.

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It's not quite as full on as yours mate! :P

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Awesome build. When can i expect to see this thing at lakeside / QR? Sounds pretty serious!

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Also, where was the gold mine? I've been to a few mine sites in my travels Moro, Bulolo and a few locations in the Western Highlands.

it was in Lihir

 

http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=524426&pid=6769801&st=0entry6769801

 

trying to pay of a property and having expensive hobbies this is the only sort of way i can afford every thing

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Awesome build. When can i expect to see this thing at lakeside / QR? Sounds pretty serious!

 

I'm keen to head out there asap but I work away so my time is limited. I did 7 track days at QR, Lakeside, Norwell in wet and dry last year in my sil80 but I can't keep swapping parts over to take that car back out to the track. I need to finish this one and then get rid of the sil80 when I am home.

 

Also, where was the gold mine? I've been to a few mine sites in my travels Moro, Bulolo and a few locations in the Western Highlands.

it was in Lihir

 

http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=524426&pid=6769801&st=0entry6769801

 

trying to pay of a property and having expensive hobbies this is the only sort of way i can afford every thing

 

Yes I hear you, i'm in the same boat but trying my hardest to not give it all to the government.

 

 

My contract finishes mid year, they don't need any sparkies out there do they? My working visa will be good until Aug next year.

Edited by Mase

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Not sure about sparkies

The company I'm working for is only taking care of steel works

I'm getting over this job now I just wanna complete the project and get of this island

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Well after getting smashed down the straights at QR on the weekend in my 180sx it was time to go back into the shed and do some work on this thing rather than washing the 180!

 

I adapted the falcon thermos to fit my koyo rad and put on my under guard chassis braces.

 

 

I've read that koyo's don't take the factory radiator cap, but then a mate told me otherwise. Can anybody confirm? I need a radiator cap for my koyo.

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Neat job on the thermos, looks like a good fit.

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Hey Jas how come you're using thermos instead of a clutch fan? I tried the falcon thermos, and the car ran hotter than factory clutch & shroud. Went back to that setup with the GKTech fan blades and it's better than ever.

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I've used a factory cap on both my Koyo rads. They've been fine.

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It's so there's enough room left for an RB20 :whistle:

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Alex, the radiator (50mm ish) and the intercooler are both behind the rad support so the thermfans fit in the small space and I need every single kw I can get and I want the cooler piping as short as possible. :P Did you have both fans running and in the right direction?

 

On my sil80 I run a 34mm koyo copper rad and the only time its been warm was racing on the weekend on the national circuit and that was 87-90 degrees. Lakeside and QR sprint it stayed on 81.

 

Thanks Sam, i'll pick up a new one tomorrow hopefully.

 

Neil no boat anchors here!

 

I spent today blowing holes in my cooler piping with the welder and after I gave up with that I started fabricating my seat rails. I scrapped the original idea of 50x25mm RHS and am now using 5x 65mm flat bar which seems to be working much better and i've tagged it to the cage.

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Hey Jas how come you're using thermos instead of a clutch fan? I tried the falcon thermos, and the car ran hotter than factory clutch & shroud. Went back to that setup with the GKTech fan blades and it's better than ever.

 

Every setup I know using falcon fans work really good

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So Mase you've got this and the orange S13? The orange one is a funsy till this is completed?

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Pretty much mate. I bought the orange one then was offered the black shell pretty cheap and I had all the parts to finish it including the motor/box/suspension/brakes/front end so that's how it all turned out.

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Yes both fans were sucking :P Must have been a dodgy/old pair then, because I noticed a slight increase in temps immediatly and then a decrease again when the clutchy was back on.

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That's strange mate, but there are quite a few variables for this. First of all you need to make sure the fan shroud is sealed as much as possible around the radiator otherwise it will pull air from through the holes, rather than pulling it through the radiator. Second if you've moved everything back like I did, I need to duct up to the radiator otherwise it will get hot. Just a simple sheet of metal between the front bar hole and the bottom of the rad support means the difference between mine getting hot and not.

 

I have bought both my fans from fordparts.com.au off ebay. They're about $135 delivered for brand new non-genuine and haven't let me down yet.

 

As for the car, well i've just been throwing whatever parts I have lying round onto the car. I've been trying to avoid the wiring as much as possible as although i'm an electrician, I don't have the patience for it! I went and purchased all the fittings and hose for the catch can, a 1.1 bar radiator cap for $10 bucks from natrad and a couple of exhaust gaskets and bolts. I'll throw photos up tonight of progress.

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Picked up a dry cell. Over the last two weeks i've tacked in the seat mounts, assembled some of the engine bay gear, installed catch can etc.

 

Seat setup tacked in and test fit

 

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I just cut the front bracket out.

 

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Did you spot weld where it was removed? Or put a plate in? Hard to tell from the pic sorry.

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Are you going to weld in another brace across the floor infront of the seat to replace the other one? Just getting some ideas for my seat when it arrives.

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I was just thinking about this yesterday. I'd say what i'll end up doing is putting a piece of RHS between the sil and trans tunnel to brace it back up and adding some flat bar between both front brackets on the seat rail for a bit of extra strength.

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