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Jyzz

Buying a Nissan Silvia S13 - Need help

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Hey all!

 

Im abit of a newbie to this site, but Im looking at Nissan Silvia S13 1992 SR20de non turbo.

The car is in Great Condition exterior wise(with the old school 2Tone Paint), not sure about interior atm.

-It has a Cracked Radiator and needs an Oil Change?

-It an Automatic, rwd with NO RUST.

~Im looking at doing it up as a drift/project car.

 

Just wondering what basics I have to look at like e.g: chassis, engine, etc.

 

Thanks for your time, help would be much apprieciated :)

Edited by Jyzz

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Never heard of 2 tone s14s, first ditch auto and change all fluids, shim diff and obviously fix rad n try not to kill yourself, track days avoid the street we don't need more p platers ruining the scene

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Never heard of 2 tone s14s, first ditch auto and change all fluids, shim diff and obviously fix rad n try not to kill yourself, track days avoid the street we don't need more p platers ruining the scene

S13 my bad mate, I will convert to Manual, Strip it, Dad want's to put a 5L in it lol. I will be off P Plates when driving it btw.

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buying a new car follow this guide

http://www.skylinesa...uld-i-look-for/

 

DE Auto is a great starting platform for a big project, I doubt you'll be able to register a 5L though.

Thanks heaps mate, very very helpful!

If it is going to be 5L it will ONLY be Track car.

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Why go from a 297kw VZ to a NA S13.

 

How do you end up planning so big when your not even sure about basics in your first post.

Hot4s is creating too many dreams.

 

That aside, I'm not really sure what your asking.

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Why go from a 297kw VZ to a NA S13.

 

How do you end up planning so big when your not even sure about basics in your first post.

Hot4s is creating too many dreams.

 

That aside, I'm not really sure what your asking.

Shared account hence the VZ.

Project car mate.

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Why go from a 297kw VZ to a NA S13.

 

How do you end up planning so big when your not even sure about basics in your first post.

Hot4s is creating too many dreams.

 

That aside, I'm not really sure what your asking.

Shared account hence the VZ.

Project car mate.

 

If you don't know how to replace a radiator and do an oil change then something tells me that you might just struggle to put a 5L into an s13

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Why go from a 297kw VZ to a NA S13.

 

How do you end up planning so big when your not even sure about basics in your first post.

Hot4s is creating too many dreams.

 

That aside, I'm not really sure what your asking.

Shared account hence the VZ.

Project car mate.

 

If you don't know how to replace a radiator and do an oil change then something tells me that you might just struggle to put a 5L into an s13

 

I was just asking if it's common for silvia's to have problems like these for example.

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If the car has had a few KM's put on it, or run with hard suspension, check inside the front guards for cracking (they start between the panel joins, or around the holes for the brake lines, and so on). Both of my S13's have had that problem, and almost all the ones I looked at to buy have had it. Easy fix, but something to keep an eye on.

 

Otherwise, common problems are:

 

1) they're all flogged

2) if its not flogged, the owner is lying, and its been flogged.

3) at some point it was the fastest time attack car in Japan, and has been stripped out and thrown back to standard, and shipped over to Australia, so its ready to fall apart

 

So check all suspension bushes, see how dirty moving components are, check steering for play, etc. I bought the cheapest 180 I could find, because I was replacing everything anyway.

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If you're going to be driving it when you have a full license, why not just find one that's already a manual and with an SR20DET and save a lot of time and money rather than doing conversions. unless you specifically wanted an N/A and were planning on an engine swap anyway.

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^^ As Samion was saying, if the price difference is piss all, just buy a turbo one. You can sell the turbo motor for a lot more than the non-turbo motor, and the brakes are actually worth something (not much, but something). NA parts are just throw-aways, really.

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^^^ this is true it's a pain in the ass and cost you time and $$$$

Unless you just want a track car that's not going to be on the road !

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We will buy an RB20 and possibly convert, I will post a build thread so I will see along the way. But thanks guys :)

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I have just done a rb20 into s13 really easy to do! Try and buy a complete motor and box with wiring loom ! Makes life easier ! Rbs are really good strong motors and love to rev !

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I have just done a rb20 into s13 really easy to do! Try and buy a complete motor and box with wiring loom ! Makes life easier ! Rbs are really good strong motors and love to rev !

 

How much did you buy the lot for mate?

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We will buy an RB20 and possibly convert, I will post a build thread so I will see along the way. But thanks guys :)

 

Why not just pick up an sr20det? if you were going to put an rb in an s chassis the very least you'd go a 25, otherwise not worth the effort IMO.

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I got the motor and box not as one and have had alot of chasing up parts trust me it's a real pain and cost more! I have also I fully refresh the bottom end and head and put on a metal head gasket. You would expect to pay about grand for a good motor and box if not more but I have seen then good for like $800 before on eBay also have a

look on eBay there are a few Chep rb20 s13 on

there ATM going Chep!

 

 

Also for the price of a sr20 det with box you can almost get a rb25 but rb20 is a good motor reliable on the track if it is well looked after !

 

If you can find a rb25 Chep and in a good nick get it you can use a rb20 box to keep the price down and use same tail shaft intill you break it then get a 25 box best box Nissan made.

Edited by colsil

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Is the rb25 conversion something you can do at home? Providing you have an engine hoist and sound mechanical knowledge? What else do you need? Diff and driveshaft would have to be changed? Anyone know ball park figure on cost?

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We will buy an RB20 and possibly convert, I will post a build thread so I will see along the way. But thanks guys :)

 

Why not just pick up an sr20det? if you were going to put an rb in an s chassis the very least you'd go a 25, otherwise not worth the effort IMO.

 

Agreed.

 

RB20 is really only worth it if upgrading from a CA18, as there are pros and cons in the 2L i4 vs 2L i6 debate.

For the ease of installation alone, an SR20DET is a better choice, since both engines can be had fairly cheap.

Edited by pmod

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keeping the sr20de, I think I was drunk when I was talking about an RB.

Doing the car up and selling it in 2 months time!

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