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davidg2152

180sx circuir, hillclimb , fun car

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Well it's week 2 of my 180sx race car journey and after having spent near 5 years builing a wild Ford XC (with associated cost) this has so far been a nice change.

 

Car is a 91 180sx with welded cage, S15 front brake, 14 rears, coilovers, upper adjustable rear arms, S15 front arms, intercooler, T25, SR20DET red top, factory ECU, Toyo 888 rubber, project mu pads, r200 6 bolt diff and thats kinda it.

 

Oh and 17x8 Lenso rims.

 

Spun in up on the dyno yesterday and made 8psi for 140rwkw. Added a manual boost controller for 10psi and a very safe and healthy 150rwkw, peakig with 11.5psi spike after a simulated circuit run at 163rwkw, all on the little T25 so very very pleased. Pump, AFR's, boost all safe and fat. Very happy.

 

To do list:

 

- weld in seat mounts

- new radiator

- subframe collars

- radius arm bushes

 

Seeing as my XC radiator was $1700rrp looking at S13 ones on ebay / Jusjap for 180-250 is beyond refreshing.

 

Aiming to join John at Trackschool 20/4 but see how we go.......

 

12922387_10209475706429066_380067154_o%201_zpsxorcywe3.jpg

 

12941180_10209450401996471_1170375134_o_zpsyj0742uo.jpg

 

12948350_10209476665653046_858064882_o_zpst2wgriv9.jpg

 

12970654_10209476665773049_1555412774_o_zpsrgcogzh4.jpg

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That is a very nice start and will be a bunch of fun straight away. Great to see!

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I have some new hard race subframe collars if your interested.

 

 

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HUSTLA I actually just fitted some the other week sorry mate.

Thanks though.

Picked up a cooling pro Just Jap radiator and a second hand shroud on the weekend. Now just need to somehow re-route the intercooler pipe to allow for the shroud to fit in there. On the hunt for a pipe to suit if we cant make it work.

I also added Nolathane radius rod bushes and the seat is all mounted in.

pipe%20pic_zpskkmxuxct.jpg

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Well shroud is in. Will be adding a GKTech fan (clutch) tomorrow with new pulley belts.

Re routed the cooler pipes but had to delete the washer bottle. First track day this Friday so fingers crossed it works ok!!

 

13073175_10209646916349207_2015014218_o_zpshh6qmrs8.jpg

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Nice work. Measure up the space you have and check out some of the small universal washer bottles on the market:

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/windscreen-washer-bottle

 

Should be easy enough to mount a small 1 litre or flat bottle somewhere in the engine bay, perhaps over near the pod filter.

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Thanks mate. Looking at your link the little 1 litre 20 buck job should be able to snavel into the factory location. For now as this is a race car I am taking it as weight reduction!!

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Well first day at the track and a few more things to fix.... On the positive side of things it drove back on the trailer and my cooling system was A1.

 

So first off a little rear tyre scrub but more noticeable was brake shudder. This got progressively worse to the point the brakes pretty much gave up after about 3 decent laps and pedal wigged out to the floor. Will look at options here. I have been told it has S15 front and S14 rear calipers????? Has Project Mu pads.

 

Has a fuel leak out of filler. Tried 2 caps same result so maybe a pressure or breather issue?

 

Was coughing a bit after 2 laps and regapped plugs to 0.70 and all good.

 

Finished with an oil leak along right side of box. Have no aftermarket breather so hoping it is an over pressure issue vs a rear main seal BUT I think I may be wishfully thinking.

 

I would have assumed if it was the seal it would have gone on the dyno but never know.

 

So looking at:

 

- Brake upgrade / options to improve and get more consistent pedal and laps

- Fix / find oil issue

- fit breather

- fix fuel cap issue

- look to add some camber to the rear.

 

Any advice is great. Looked at GKtechs website and seem to have a few options

 

Few pics of the trials and tribulations!!

 

13090672_10209670080648300_1583016194_o_zpsf4vwzwcy.jpg

 

13091832_10209670082368343_1960015733_o_zpspovtptxt.jpg

passenger side of box looks OK

 

13091794_10209668981980834_1754992925_o_zpscslejkyf.jpg

 

drivers side not so good

 

13112454_10209670082008334_1833753451_o_zpsvna1uk1h.jpg

 

front brakes

13105972_10209668763655376_1320243619_o_zpslxutgzmr.jpg

 

13090713_10209668763735378_378606438_o_zpsuzjqifcc.jpg

calipers S15?

 

tiny rear calipers

13128553_10209668763575374_1230391743_o_zps5gdjmeue.jpg

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I would check your slave cylinder for the leaks on your gearbox, because in that picture it looks like clutch fluid is coming out of your slave boot seal.

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Yeah no loss of clutch fluid.

Looked like oil when we cleaned up.

Its a weird one

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OK it seems the orange tube is the box breather tube and I would say it has spewed all over the side of the box. There is also a big leak at the rear of the box below the area of the shifter. The shifter boot that comes through the floor is fine so is there another seal somewhere? Really hoping it is a simple fix.

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the leak at the top just sounds like the shifter seal very simple fix.

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The weird thing is there is no oil on the tunnel its all down under the shifter and around the speedo sensor etc.

Caked in oil.

Does that 6 bolt plate atop the box under the shifter leak ever?

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The weird thing is there is no oil on the tunnel its all down under the shifter and around the speedo sensor etc.

Caked in oil.

Does that 6 bolt plate atop the box under the shifter leak ever?

 

It can leak if the shifter housing was ever removed [in the past] to install an aftermarket short shifter. Should the paper gasket not be replaced with another oem gasket, or RTV gasket sealant, then it may leak. Obviously nothing is guaranteed, but it can happen.

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Nope the box can stay in, it's just a really annoying job due to the lack of space. Ratchet spanners ftw.

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Tops.

Ordered some r34gtt front and gtst rear brakes so hopefully these help a bit at the track.

I will try get into the box sometime on monday and see whats going on there.....

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It has been a while but I have added the BM50, abs delete, scored some 4000 series DBA's with plenty of meat in the rotor / caliper package from Skyline Spares so skimmed them and all on. Added a GKTech solid steer bush and gearbox mount, have re-plumbed a new box overflow, new shifter seal, re-sealed the fuel filler neck (was leaking alot on track) and will be towing the car out this week to finish the GTST drum handbrake / caliper upgrade.

Service it up and hopefully find a cheap passengers seat then aiming for another track day on the 17th of August if all goes to plan.

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Brakes are in! As is the GKTech solid box mount.......but it seems the loading and unloading and riding of the clutch off and on trailers may have revealed a clutch on the way out. It was fine at the last track day but today moving about it the pedal didnt want to "pop" back out. We bled it and it has a new master cyl but made no difference. So seems it could be time for a clutch as well.

May add an oil relocation kit as the filter is a pain.

Wheel alignment and rotate the tyres. Hopefully try and get it to a hillclimb on the 14th August and track day 17th.

With 150rwkw any clutch suggestions?

 

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13843361_10210453023941393_112990433_o_zpsevhyfrr5.jpg

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Exedy heavy duty organic will do for the power you have now, but i'd recommend npc organic instead so you have room to move up in power. I think they're rated to about 300-350rwkw and feel like an oem clutch.

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I got a quote of NPC yesterday so I will let the boys know. They are going to check the master cyl first even though its new and also the clutch rod in case it needs some grease. if that fails its box out and new clutch. Shit happens just want to get it sorted.

Was looking to shim up the diff but am just going to keep an eye out for a 1.5 or 2 way to go in and save mucking about. Hopefully then I get get it out reliably for some lap times!

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Well just about there. Clutch was lubed up and somehow "seems" to be ok. Added a Aeroflow sump as they were on special this week. Wheel alignment was so far out it was ridiculous but all good now.

 

Still trying to fix the fuel cap.............

 

Now on look out for a mechanical diff.

 

Have to see how the brakes go on the track proportioning wise.

 

 

Also added a high tech box breather catch can. Best 4 buck investment yet :)

 

13987083_10210586719243692_1046541217_o_zpscccimti7.jpg

 

13987850_10210585951624502_1261136591_o_zpsert8lvkc.jpg

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keep the updates coming I'm actually following this

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No dramas mate fingers crossed I will have a car trailer within the month and this will all get alot easier.

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Well did a track day and a couple of wins and losses.

Brakes were pretty good, may need a bias valve as wanted to lock rears a little but I will play with tyre pressures.

Bloody sump leaked so I will have to remove, clean and threebond again.

 

Gearbox shat oil AGAIN and appears to be coming out of the plate under the shifter (new boot did nothing).

 

Everything else was fixed and worked fine until the last session when the clutch finally said farewell to this earth and I pulled 6k in 5th @ 100kmh.

 

So its in the shed and I am gonna have a crack at doing this myself.

 

The bearings in the box I assume are stuffed. I am toying whether to bother replacing them, leaving it and just cracking on or looking for a decent sh box. It just adds up I guess.

 

So I have the car on stands (front end) and will commence attempting to get the thing out..............here we go again

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Ahh the joys of farting around with gearboxes. I recently had the displeasure of changing the clutch on a friend's R34 GTT, so I can empathise with your situation.

 

If you're in a position to strip the box and get the bearings pulled/pressed, it's probably worth doing it. I'm assuming the drivetrain doesn't take too much shock in a hillclimb car, and you aren't making massive power, so getting a conversion box is just adding cost and weight for no real gain imo. Most people would recommend upgrading the box to something stronger, and although they aren't wrong, I personally subscribe to the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" school of thought, and it doesn't sound like you're stripping gears.

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Na 4th crunched twice while I was doing my quickest shits but apart from that just whines heaps.

 

I have just got to unbolt the bellhousing bolts and in theory it will be ready to come out.

 

Once it is out I would rather get it looked at and fixed up a little if needed but when I drained it no massive hunks of metal came out so that was a bonus!

 

While I have you is a GKTech slave cylinder ok to fit up. I will do that at the same time

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OK....so I am down to 6 bellhousing bolts. I have 3 extentions and uni fit tool but how the fuck is this meant to work. Do I attack from the underside or topside? I am at a loss and now very daunted at the re-install process....... :/

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Na 4th crunched twice while I was doing my quickest shits but apart from that just whines heaps.

 

Easy to crunch a nut during a speedy shit. I feel ya'.

 

OK....so I am down to 6 bellhousing bolts. I have 3 extentions and uni fit tool but how the fuck is this meant to work. Do I attack from the underside or topside? I am at a loss and now very daunted at the re-install process....... :/

 

From memory, I slipped a spanner down from the top when I last removed my gearbox, possibly removing some of the heater hose bracket bolts to gain access. It's a bastard of a job, but still easier to deal with than an R34.

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Ok. ITS OUT!!!!!!

I was greated with a pink pressure plate and this clutch plate:

 

14678131_10211201231526115_2065173897_o_zpswuxlyzjw.jpg

 

have some heat spots on what seemed to be a recently fitted flywheel

 

14647466_10211201230966101_1918708406_o_zpsejavowz7.jpg

 

I then found the actuator line to be completely split so my clutch may not have liked MAX boost! I checked all the plugs and no damage and as I was only revving to max 5.5k hopefully I dodged a bullet there.

 

14678077_10211201475892224_780693994_o_zps73dq6dgv.jpg

 

gavr box a quick clean

 

14672662_10211203169894573_1654457919_o_zps7x8g9ydk.jpg

 

and here is clutch plate part number

 

14672614_10211203191495113_1984709896_o_zpsmqahynii.jpg

 

So next I will be dropping the box off to have bearings checked and then sorting a clutch

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