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dicko

Help me improve the powerband of my SR20DET race motor?

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Lots more great advice - thank you everyone.

 

Yes selling the motor and going back to stock is controversial but I understand the logic. Money in the pocket (tits and rack LoL) and closer to the powerband desired. It is controversial but good advice. I think that the high static compression / E85 setup that I currently have, once tuned for smaller cams, stock inlet manifold and the T28 SHOULD have benefits in the low and mid range area compared to the stock compression ratio. It should help spool and low end torque. For this reason i'll do cams/ inlet manifold/ turbo and a tune first, then consider selling second if the benefits over a stock mid/ low end response are only marginal or none. Would I do a built motor if it was me starting from scratch - no, but since it is already in the car it seems more PITA to start over than bolt a few more mild bits on.

 

To confirm a few of the questions asked:

*Gearboxes are open - the car runs a Z32 box with Giken close ratio gearset

*It is supposed to be standard turbo's.

*Management is a Link G4

*Car already has a 4.6 diff

 

The HyperGear thread was very useful - thanks Skepticism. Good dyno comparisons between different mods and turbos.

 

Assadd11 and others - we know you shouldn't use solid profile cams with hydraulic lifters due to valve float etc, but does anyone conclusively know that you shouldn't use hydraulic profile cams with solid lifters? Since the hassle of converting to solid is already done, (and the rally car doesn't do many kilometres that maintenance of lash is a real problem), I am considering retaining the solid setup but with a hydraulic profile cam. I have been running the BC272 which is a hydraulic profile for circa 2500km of which 1000k's was competitive racing so far, and there doesn't seem to be a issue wrt mismatch of solid lifters on the hydraulic profile (although I haven't pulled it down to check lobe wear/ etc yet).

 

There is conflicting info on the web about the duration of stock cams, but my summary of the best low range cams is as follows:

Stock S13 DET - 240 duration with 9mm lift

Stock DE - 248 inlet with10mm lift, 246 exhaust with 9mm lift,

Poncams - 256 with 11.5mm lift. Its a hydraulic profile but I'm yet to see anything that says you cant run hydraulic on solid lifters (but you don't want to do it the other way around) .

Procams 260 with 12mm lift - smallest profile solid lifter cam

 

So that gives me a good range of cams to consider. If stock isn't breathing above 6000, the rest probably would. Poncams seem the pick duration and lift wise.

 

I'm keen to understand more about why the high static compression ratio is considered outside the range of the t28. Remembering its running a external wastegate and electronic boost controller, when the motor is higher in the rev range, and given only 200rwkw target, excess exhaust manifold pressure will be bled off instead of having to pass through the turbine. So my understanding of turbo theory must be missing something?

 

Thanks again everyone

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Johnillite - nice Vid. The power graph looks very good for rally, assuming the tail off in the upper end isnt the setup stopped breathing and is fuel pump as you say. 90-ish rwkw by 3200, 150-ish rwkw by 4000, and near flat around 180-200rwkw from 4500-redline.

 

Was this ever converted to E85, or could anyone point to a similar spec car on E85 dyno graph?

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lol chopped!

 

some dynos can be more number happy than others lol who knows..

 

looks good tho how much for a tune? got power fc & wideband display?

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Johnillite - nice Vid. The power graph looks very good for rally, assuming the tail off in the upper end isnt the setup stopped breathing and is fuel pump as you say. 90-ish rwkw by 3200, 150-ish rwkw by 4000, and near flat around 180-200rwkw from 4500-redline.

 

Was this ever converted to E85, or could anyone point to a similar spec car on E85 dyno graph?

 

car is now on E85, with a stiffer Kando 1 bar actuator, Z32, DW300 Fuel pump and 1000cc injectors. Timing has increased in the midrange to 14 and tops at 22 up top. Car makes 217kW on the dyno I used however at Powertune's dyno day only showed 201kW LOL..

 

Boost now is at 1.2bar and bleeds down to about 0.9bar up top. Car does consistent 1m10s around Wakefield with worn as shit Hankooks, we are bringing it back end of the year for a shake down with new tyres and trying to get it into the 9s. I'll hopefully get coilovers for my R33 boat and try for the 8s.

 

I'll see if my mate has a scan of the dyno graph, also because now the car runs a shit load more timing mid range it's amazing around corners. No need to shift back into 3rd or 2nd. Some corners will happily take 4th gear.

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lol chopped!

 

some dynos can be more number happy than others lol who knows..

 

looks good tho how much for a tune? got power fc & wideband display?

 

Yep, thus I run long ramps and calibrate the ambient air temp sensor. It provides you with a far more accurate reading.

 

I sold my data logit kit so I am unable to work with PowerFC ECUs unless you can provide one.

 

Happy to tune Adaptronic, Nistune Haltech amf ViPec

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assad11 you need a new dealer because your current one is obviously selling you cheap gear. Your rage is out of control.

 

I'll give you a hot tip, the guys your criticising know their shit. Myself and many others have had a lot of help over our time on here from them.

 

All I can say is tread carefully and don't burn your bridges.

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who cares who knows what if your a douche your a douche, i never said everyone can suck it anyways i said some of them like varvs ( tryna tell me im wrong when admits he knows nothing)....

 

 

And i still think selling his engine and trying to buy a stock sr is outrageously stupid! And 99% of people would 110% agree without question, people just kept on agreeing to either troll or cant agree with me because they think im a total wanker.. either way im right not wrong..

 

And id wayyyy rather to rebuild an engine than buy a used one and run with that, once youve blueprinted it you know its a brand new engine to nissans specs and will take a beating for a long time, a used sr would of already taken a beating no matter how many k's its done.. Its be wayyy cheaper to rebuild it than buy a new one, considering he already has a billet crank and decent rods.

 

Im sorry im just still trying to wrap my head around how someone would rather buy a stock sr instead? If you cant rebuild your own engine then maybe youd like to buy a used motor but most people that work on engines would know straight away what should really be done.. just ask someone thats a real engine builder..

Edited by assad11

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and johnni by the time the cars ready il have the data logit. so you should be able to break 300 with my setup if i keep the 2860rs?

Edited by assad11

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and johnni by the time the cars ready il have the data logit. so you should be able to break 300 with my setup if i keep the 2860rs?

 

turbo is too small, it will be glowing bright red on song.

 

are you in Sydney?

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This assad chap is off his chops, please steer well clear of his advice dicko :P

 

I think you're much better off selling the worked motor and getting a stock one... I hit the power level you're looking for with a stock internal ca18! With the current motor's compression and cams you're gonna be fighting an uphill battle the whole time just to get the motor running happily. As people have stated; with high comp you need big cams and a big turbine... can't avoid that.

 

I tried to do a similar thing with my motor (although it's 1JZ instead) and I ran into problems like surging and tuning issues... it's not fun.

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Theres an engine half as built as this one with no accessories for sale on a facebook page for 4k right now and people are crazy about what a bargain it is. So your 'not going to get money for it' is also wrong. factory engines routinely go for half that or less will all accessories.

 

I dont know how to do any of that shit you might have mentioned but i DO know that my car was built to a goal and hit it without spending a shit-load of money or over-speccing components. My whole setup probably cost less than your mates 3076, makes almost as much power (187rwkw @ 21PSI from a T28) and is all off the shelf components. Not to mention probably has less lag, and the dyno tuning was done while the clutch was slipping.

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Oh and the day you show me an SR that does 200kw ATRW that is stock i will hand my type x over and fart in your face...

 

 

Last time i checket most stock srs put out around 130-140rwkw maxx and thats with exhaust and front mount!

 

My mate has a 180sx red top gt3076r, haltech ecu n everything else done APART from internals all internals are completely standard from cams to bearings all never been touched and he just managed to crack 200rwkw on over 20psi!! could of been 26 or 24 but def over 22psi 100%

 

so show me these stock sr20s that are pulling 200kw?

 

My 180sx was pulling over 240kw and all the internals were stock only mods were bolt ons. Now I have a fully built sr that is currently making 450hp at the rears and i have maxed the injectors atm but I have built it for drag racing not rally it needs to be able to get the power to the ground

 

I agree go with the stock setup with a hiflow t28 and aftermarket ecu or nistune.

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mates engine was tuned by JEM at ingleburn they are well known for tuning srs and rbs as well as evos and most other jap cars, they are a good place to get tuned..

 

People are still talking about his current setup!! and yous are acting like i said this setup is perfect for what he is after dont change a thing! LOL

 

after he brings his comp down and swaps his cams after a tune he WILL be right where he wants to be!

 

How many used SR engines have you had and tried to sell varvs??? 1 or none? everyone wants to pay for them or knows someone wanting to pay good money for one until you have one ready to be sold! then theres no one to be seen and all that big talk crumbles and no ones anywhere even makes an offer! just like alot of other things..

 

yeah johnnie im in syd, before someone said something about stock ecu's and stock tunes or something, and with a stock tune stock boost and front mount and exhaust you cant come close to 200, if everything else is done and you have the t28 with a tune of course youl get close to 200 lol i never said you wouldnt, stock is standard lol not everything done apart from internals lol

 

I just cannot see the point in selling an sr to buy an sr! Why wouldnt you just tear it down and build it to how u want with his goals in mind from the start of the teardown! Anyone saying i am wrong is damn stupid LMFAO, not agreeing is fair enough and thats all i have done from the start lol (not agreed) no one can be right or wrong different people have different prefrences and different skills that set them back..

 

But if i was in dickoes shoes i would tear it down put 8.5/1 pistons in prob cp again, and change to hyd lifters so i can put in some 256 poncams grab a t28 (if he can get away with it since his rules) and throw some new bearings in, a light port/polish if it hasnt already been done throw it back together and go get it tuned and it will be exactly how he wants it! Most people could get that done in a week taking their time!

 

Maybe all you guys disagree because you cant rebuild engines yourself in your backyard? maybe due to lack of tools or experience or who knows why? But for someone able to do it themselves, they would agree with me..

 

The people below who say they can build their own engines and say they would buy a stock sr and restart are just saying that because they cant agree with me because i have come across as a complete f*#@ wit in this thread! For people who know me will tell you the exact opposite i am far from it, the people who are nice to me or help me i will go to EXTREMES to help them back or do whatever i possibly can to make them happy until they treat me like a gronk..

 

I am sorry if i came across the wrong way but i can just not understand why he would sell his motor and go buy the same motor in its stock form..

it would be wayyy cheaper to rebuild and your going to have to remove and install an engine whether you rebuild or swap! so your in the same boat anyways!

 

I just would like people that are asking genuine questions and genuinely need help to get proper answers and good help that they come here for!

 

Not get told to do things that noone would do lol, i think doing what you guys recommend is off the charts and would be 5x more headache and stressful than simply rebuilding with his goals in mind from the start!

 

oh and next time i want to sell an sr engine thats in good working order im going to hold all of you to it! and i want at least 3500! reguardless of k's lol

 

everyone knows selling things and thinking about selling things are two completely different things! theres sooo many buyers around until you have one to sell! then you only get offered STUPID amounts if any offers at all! unless your willing to sit on it for a long amount of time until someone with a decent amount pops up could be 3 months could be 2 years! lol thanks but most people would rather spend 1300-1500 on parts and get the rebuild over and done with by the time you received an offer he would have his rebuilt engine in the car and heading to johnnies place to get it tuned!

 

Anyone thats been through it will tell you how it is! anyone that has sold their engine quickly for a good price has just been in the right place right time.. theres no national waiting list for people wanting to buy used sr engines on their own lol well not that i know of anyways lol wish there was i wouldnt of lost out soooo much dosh over the years from smashed and burnt cars.. woulda made some of the dosh back through gettting 4k plus for the engine lol, some SR20's can be brought for under 4 grand and guess what? they also come with a whole car!! so who is going to pay 4 grand for just the engine when they can go buy one in a shell with rego...

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My 180sx was pulling over 240kw and all the internals were stock only mods were bolt ons. Now I have a fully built sr that is currently making 450hp at the rears and i have maxed the injectors atm but I have built it for drag racing not rally it needs to be able to get the power to the ground

 

I agree go with the stock setup with a hiflow t28 and aftermarket ecu or nistune.

 

when i said what you quoted im saying stock tune stock boost..exhaust and front mount can still be in the stock category lol but boosted with a tune isnt "stock" thats called worked with stock internals lol of course you can crack 200 with stock internals!

 

and seriously johnnie that white s15 run on the dyno really honestly does not look like a 200kw run lol, not being a dick just saying when ive seen other cars pull 200kw they seem to pull alot harder than that run.. but sometimes a car looks like its gna pull 250kw and it ends up doing 350kw lol

 

i think you cant compare power figures from different dynos, if you are going to compare figures the runs MUST be done on the same dyno with exact same setting, true? maybe on a different dyno that s15 could only pull 160kw?

 

anyways johnni, from your experience youve seen my setup in the other thread yea? what turbo would best suit? not sure if im changing to 260 12.0mm procams yet?

 

and since you tune hopefully you know the intake valve opening and closing events for non vct engines? should i advance the intake a tooth and retard a few degrees to get an Intake opening of 8 or 9 deg BTDC?

 

Or run it straight up at 0 which is 9* ATDC! big difference lol cam card says IO: 9* BTDC IC: 45*ABDC, should non vcts 272 degree cams intake open around the 9* BTDC mark? thanks

 

cp pistons 87.5mm 8.5/1 CR

eagle rods

acl race bearings rods & mains

stock crank

apexi head gasket 1.1mm

BC valves (standard size) & seats recut to suit

BC Valve springs & retainers

BC 272 Stage 3 cams

BC adjustable cam gears

new oem timing chain

all new oem gaskets where needed

Apexi power fc D-Jetro ( no AFM)

850cc bosch injectors

top feed fuel rail

sard fpr

greddy profec OLED boost controller

Arp head & main studs (main bearing bores line honed to suit arps is a must! or crank wont spin when torqued!!)

bosch 044

 

just c&pd it for u, got the 2860rs atm but prob going to upgrade before shes ready to be tuned, what would suit you reckn?

 

going for as much midrange as pos considering the 272s are in, so prefer a turbo that will help midrange a bit considering it is going to suffer from the 272s.. thanks

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Why does he need to bring down his comp?

 

If his aim is 200kw and the turbo will max out at 200kw why would dropping comp make a difference? Higher comp will make the 200kw at lower boost but be no more risky as combustion pressure will be the same hence same power. I'd rather a high comp motor on lower boost with lower IATs making the same power.

 

I run just under 10:1 comp on my motor with a turbo that'll do 350-400kw and I've got the same, if not a bit more torque down low as a stock motor with t28 setup on e85 with stock cams.

 

 

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Why does he need to bring down his comp?

 

If his aim is 200kw and the turbo will max out at 200kw why would dropping comp make a difference? Higher comp will make the 200kw at lower boost but be no more risky as combustion pressure will be the same hence same power. I'd rather a high comp motor on lower boost with lower IATs making the same power.

 

I run just under 10:1 comp on my motor with a turbo that'll do 350-400kw and I've got the same, if not a bit more torque down low as a stock motor with t28 setup on e85 with stock cams.

 

You can run 10:1 CR because you have a significantly larger turbine housing, and that larger turbine wheel has sufficient flow to deal with the extra compression. The issue is that the OP must run a stock turbo to meet rally regs, so he will be pushing everything through a tiny turbine wheel. His CR is simply too high, and he will have issues as a result.

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But CR doesn't equal flow. Torque or power equal flow. Well that's my thinking anyway

 

The way I see it is at 200kw he will be flowing the same amount of air regardless of CR. If he has lower compression he may need 18psi to make that power (example) but at 11.4:1 he might need only 10psi (example). It's still going to be 200kw worth of flow.

 

If he can keep knock under control (which he will be able to with e85) then why not? Plenty of OEMs run comp over 10 with turbos and have to deal with 95 octane... granted they're not going for massive power, but it's a better option for them than having lower compression and higher boost

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Nicknack - End of the day, the turbo is a restriction. Have a look at Hondas. Possible to hit say 140-150kw atw with NA tuning. When people buy entry level turbo kits for Honda motors that use a T28, they usually don't get past 150kw at the wheels, because the turbo chokes the motor (K20 is 11.5?:1 CR, so fairly relevant). Any boost or timing added goes nowhere. You're generally looking at something like a 3071/3076 minimum, which would jump straight to a lazy 250kw atw with minimal lag. But that's out of the question for OP.

 

Comparing an SR to newer (post 2000) engines is unfair, in regards to comp, boost levels, whatever, considering the SR is based on 80's technology. Even the VCT motor has a much better inlet design (even just down to the positioning of the injectors, allows them to run better with shitter injectors than S13 motors).

 

And Assad, your setup is fairly mismatched. 272 cams will suit a powerband from say 5000-9000, the 2860 would be good for 3500-7500. You don't get a turbo to compensate for what the cams will lose, you get a turbo that will complement the cams. The turbo will be choking the motor as the cams finally come onto song, and your powerband will be a lot narrower.

 

As for everyones suggestion of buy a stock motor, why the hell would he throw money at rebuilding his current motor? At the moment it's worth something. You want him to put money into new pistons, cams, lifters, and since hes rebuilding he'd need new gaskets and seals. If he even just put an ad up, it's not impossible that someone would swap him a stock motor with a chunk of cash his way.

 

Since the turbo is more or less the limiting factor, you would pick everything else to suit the turbo. And since he is literally limited in turbo choice, you would pick everything to suit the T28. But lets look closer at the stock setup.

 

Stock non-vct SR20DET, the cams and T25 choke by around 6000rpm. T28 will be happy with up to 7000 or so rpm. Most jap '264' cams will give the motor decent oomph from 3000-7000, so they go hand in hand with the T28, which is good for 320hp or ~200-210 rwkw. Anything bigger will lose bottom and and have wasted upper potential.

 

- At these power levels, forged pistons simply aren't necessary, they wear faster and (usually) require more care in warming the car up.

- "Forged crank" doesn't mean anything because the standard crank is forged. If it's a stroker, that's a different story, but may not be allowed in his class, and probably would result in a motor that's going to be wasted with a T28.

- solid lifters and hydraulic cams tends to suggest it's a random parts motor, which

- unopened, Nissan engines are -believe it or not- f**king reliable. So f**king reliable. They'll do 200,000km with regular thrashing (that doesn't mean holding them on limiter) if they are maintained. With a baffled sump and decent radiator, a 150-200rwkw SR will go all day, every day.

 

Finally, drop the attitude. Noone cares that you have built your own motor. NS isn't what it used to be, and when you want to fight people because "stock motor" means different things to different people, well, the scene is just going to get smaller, and when you have your next cam related problem, you're not going to get any help.

 

Dicko, in plain english

 

Stock SR20DET with:

- 256 or 264 cams
- 480/550 injectors
- 3" exhaust
- front mount intercooler
- T28 (ball bearing would be slightly more responsive, but bush bearing will still make the same power)
- any tunable computer
- any fuel pump bigger than stock

This will make 200rwkw, and have the best low down response.

And be reliable to boot. It will make power from 3000-7000.

And if anything goes bang, very easy to replace.

 

The reason why everyone is saying to go for this setup or something like it, is because it works.

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Like everyone else has said -

Stock engine (with vct if allowed) and e85 fuel set up.

 

I wouldn't even bother changing cams from stock unless after a few events you think you need the extra torque.

 

When the engine eventuality dies or you do a end of season tear down/inspection put some 9:1 CR pistons in it then, or just buy another stock engine as a cheaper alternative.

 

I'm a mechanic and I built my sr engine myself. . . Like all performance engine builders I have spoken to, not to blue print specs.

Edited by ColS15

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wizard- This is the turbo the car came with lol I did not buy this turbo or try to match the turbo with the build at all lol this is why im asking what some of you guys would think is a good turbo to match it, isnt that what i said? if i was to get a tune with the disco i would throw in some 260s was looking at 260 @ 11.5mm lift which is smaller lift than the normal 260s, if the 272s are staying there will be something bigger to match, thats been the plan the whole time lol but even if i end up grabbing some procams i will most likely grab a new turbo before im able to go for tuning.

 

Maybe ns isnt what it used to be why is everyone so sensitive! did someone say something about fighting?!? lol i never knew people arent aloud to disagree on forums anymore and debate or even talk about it? whats the point in having message boards if noone is going to disagree or give different angles of advice? different prefrences different angles of the spectrum..Ive never told anyone off lol tbh i dont even think ive been rude or anyones been rude to me!?! I think people just need someone to pick on or someone to turn to and say yup thats that guy lol wierd if you ask me..

 

I cant beleive someone said something about fighting after i said sorry if i came across the wrong way?!?!?!

 

Col: Of course everyone has their own methods and thoughts on what works best and what doesnt, what might work for some might not work with others, but in general, all i said was if you build an engine and all is to spec you should not be paranoid in running with it especially if you yourself have set those specs gone through the processes yourself why would you be worried about something going wrong? you should be confident that nothing is going to go wrong if you know the job you have done is satisfactory!

 

If you guys think that is being a smart ass or wanting to fight someone i just can not understand what the problem is?

 

& wizard i said first of all just swap cams and retune but since everyone hates his compression ratio i just went along with it as a thing to get changed aswel, if he doesnt want to spend money then he doesnt have to lol why am i a bad guy for posting what i would do! I just dont understand lol everyone has dug at me from the start!

Edited by assad11

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This is what everything you have posted comes across as

 

WHAT THE f**k ARE YOU STUPID WHY WOULD YOU SELL A SUPER BUILT MOTOR BECAUSE BUILT MOTORS ARE THE BEST THEY ARE THE f**king BEST YOU ARE RIDICULOUS I CANT BELIEVE BLING COMMANDER WOULD SAY SOMETHING SO STUPID YOURE ALL STUPID I BLUEPRINTED MY MOTOR DID YOU KNOW THAT I BLUEPRINTED IT AND YOU ARE STUPID IF YOU DONT THINK THAT A $1000000000 MOTOR CAN OUTPERFORM A STOCK MOTOR THEN YOU ARE STUPID THIS IS THE DUMBEST THING I HAVE EVER READ I CANT UNDERSTAND WHY YOU THINK THAT I THINK THAT INSTEAD OF TAKING THE EASIEST CHEAPEST MOST COMMON SENSE OPTION DICKO SHOULD PULL APART A PERFECTLY FINE WORKING MOTOR (BECAUSE I CAN BLUE PRINT MOTORS) AND HE SHOULD BLUE PRINT IT WHILE CHANGING EVERY MOVING PART FOR ANOTHER MOVING PART THAT HE HAS TO PAY MONEY FOR BECAUSE THIS IS THE BEST CHOICE BECAUSE I CAN BLUE PRINT MY OWN MOTOR AND ANYONE THAT DISAGREES WITH ME HAS A HAPPY DYNO AND PROBABLY HASNT BLUEPRINTED THEIR OWN MOTOR (WHICH I HAVE DONE) BY THE WAY IF YOU THINK A MOTOR NISSAN SPENT MILLIONS DESIGNING CAN OUTPERFORM A MOTOR I THREW PARTS AT WELL I HAVE NEWS FOR YOU BECAUSE MY FRIEND HAS A STUPID SETUP THAT HAD DISMAL RESULTS (WHICH WOULD HAVE BENEFITTED FROM BEING BLUEPRINTED TO BE HONEST) SO ANY MOTOR THAT HASN'T HAD A HOUSE DEPOSIT SPENT ON IT IS A TOTAL WASTE OF TIME AND WORTH NOTHING HAHA I CANT UNDERSTAND WHY YOU WOULD SAY THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! VCT MOTORS ARE SHIT MY CAR THAT IS IN PIECES IS FASTER THAN ANY S15 EVER AND IF YOU DISAGREE WITH ME YOU PROBABLY HAVENT BLUEPRINTED YOUR MOTOR AND DONT KNOW ANYTHING ESPECIALLY ABOUT VCT MOTORS WHICH ARE SHITTER THAN NON VCT MOTORS UNLESS THERE IS A HAPPY DYNO WHICH MAY VARY RESULTS BY 20% OF WHAT PEOPLE ARE ACCEPTING BUT YOU WOULDNT KNOW ABOUT THAT BECAUSE YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO MEASURE BEARINGS AND RUNOUT AND BLUEPRINTS OK f**k

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wizard- This is the turbo the car came with lol I did not buy this turbo or try to match the turbo with the build at all lol this is why im asking what some of you guys would think is a good turbo to match it, isnt that what i said? if i was to get a tune with the disco i would throw in some 260s was looking at 260 @ 11.5mm lift which is smaller lift than the normal 260s, if the 272s are staying there will be something bigger to match, thats been the plan the whole time lol but even if i end up grabbing some procams i will most likely grab a new turbo before im able to go for tuning.

 

Maybe ns isnt what it used to be why is everyone so sensitive! did someone say something about fighting?!? lol i never knew people arent aloud to disagree on forums anymore and debate or even talk about it? whats the point in having message boards if noone is going to disagree or give different angles of advice? different prefrences different angles of the spectrum..Ive never told anyone off lol tbh i dont even think ive been rude or anyones been rude to me!?! I think people just need someone to pick on or someone to turn to and say yup thats that guy lol wierd if you ask me..

 

I cant beleive someone said something about fighting after i said sorry if i came across the wrong way?!?!?!

 

Col: Of course everyone has their own methods and thoughts on what works best and what doesnt, what might work for some might not work with others, but in general, all i said was if you build an engine and all is to spec you should not be paranoid in running with it especially if you yourself have set those specs gone through the processes yourself why would you be worried about something going wrong? you should be confident that nothing is going to go wrong if you know the job you have done is satisfactory!

 

If you guys think that is being a smart ass or wanting to fight someone i just can not understand what the problem is?

 

& wizard i said first of all just swap cams and retune but since everyone hates his compression ratio i just went along with it as a thing to get changed aswel, if he doesnt want to spend money then he doesnt have to lol why am i a bad guy for posting what i would do! I just dont understand lol everyone has dug at me from the start!

 

 

If you didnt sound like a petulant f**king child every time you posted people might take you seriously. Until then, continue attempting to piss up a rope with bad advice.

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Pretty sure everyone on here is over your opinion Assad and you've had about 10,000 goes at saying the same thing.

 

Your wisdom is nil compared to half the guys that have posted in this thread so I suggest you just take note instead of arguing stupid points.

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LOLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL

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i would be miserable like you if i was still a 30 year old broke virgin too lol i feel sorry for some of you guys..

 

i tried to be nice but you guys are still crying like girls LOL

 

anyways, im i kid that knows nothing and you guys are master gurus that know everything there is to know, doesnt matter how smart you are or how much you know theres always things to learn no one knows everything so stop acting like it you fools..

 

& wizard you the one telling dicko to sell his "PERFECTLY FINE WORKING MOTOR" and go and buy a stock one with unknown history 200,000+ ks thrashed stock motor to go into a rally car! AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

 

 

And im dumb and wrong oh and know nothing LOL you crack me up.. i shoulda just dropped out in year 9 and sold drugs...

Edited by assad11

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oh thanks mate how kind of you, why would you bring up something not being spoken about? unless you dont understand something? tryna cover your tracks aye? shift it onto someone else aye? lol

 

Big deal ramp rates, how much drag/load the rollers have when having a run of course itl effect numbers, ramp rates were actually invented to prevent a wide variety in power figures on different dynos with the same power level, but as we can tell some people use it to up the power levels of some cars..

 

maybe ur mates s15 showed 195kw but my mates 180 with the gt30 would leave it for dead plain and simple ive seen it on the dyno ive driven it and you can tell straight away without a doubt it is more powerful than that s15, you can tell by the run the s15 is a nugget lol that run was not a genuine 200kw run it looked like it was a 150kw run.. 170maxx..

Edited by assad11

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Assad do you not realize that if he does your suggestions new pistons and bearings ect that would cost more than swapping it out for a stock sr. You are talking basicly taking an overhaul to a perfectly fine engine. Have you even thought about the advice you are giving? You just sound like a keyboard warrior

Edited by bumblebee

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Cool man, don't ask me to tune your car then.

 

Ramp rates simply means how much the dyno accelerates every second. Even if I strapped my R33 at a 13sec ramp it would look the same as a 200kW S15.

 

You clearly have no understanding of how a dyno works.

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