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hank_187 posted a topic in Parts for Sale- Gt2871 genuine Garrett 440hp turbo on tomei expreme exhaust manifold and dump pipe ceramic coated with hks inlet and braided line was on my forged motor has done 4,000km, it made 270kw atw at 19psi on 98. $2200 - Apexi Power Fc Djetro with all wiring and sensors of a 97 black top 180sx type x $1100 - Strawberry face conversion guards brand new in primer with MSport S15 front bar also brand new in primer $450 - Koyo 53mm racing Aliminum radiator 4,000km old $450 - Greddy lightened pulleys (water, alternator, power steering) and Lightened GFB Harmonic balancer $450 comes with Alternator - bm50 master cylinder 4 bolt brand new $150 -180sx L & R Rear Quarter Windows $220 - 180sx interior trims, rear lights, interior lights etc boxes and boxes from donor cars take the lot $150 or message for what you need All prices are somewhat negotiable and upgraded parts were bought brand new and have 4,000km on them, have since sold the car and now have a Subaru Liberty GT wagon so don't need them sitting in storage.
When the alternator pulley removal process is raised, many people advise to wrap it in a rag or rubber belt, clamp it with vice grips, tighten the pulley belt, etc. If don't have a rattle gun and you can afford to remove it from the car, then there is a better way. The outer coil and the inner rotor of an alternator are separate pieces, with the shaft the pulley bolts onto being joined with the rotor. All you have to do is disassemble it and stick it in a bigass vice. Difficulty = 4 Where 10 is rebuilding an engine, and 0 is ripping a dry fart. Time Required = 15 minutes + removal + installation If painting the alternator, it will take a little longer. I painted mine a terracotta colour, as you do. Tools Required Two small allen keys or rods Bigass vice Philips #1 screwdriver 1/2" ratcket 12, 14, 24mm socket Process Step 1. Remove the alternator from the car. Refer to the Service Manual if you're unsure of the process. Step 2. Remove the outer four retention bolts, and gently tap the alternator to separate the rotor from the coil. Step 3. Secure the fixed magnet of the rotor in a bigass vice with serrated plates. Use the least amount of force required to secure it, as too much can cause cracks. Step 4. Remove the pulley with a socket driver, install the new one and torque to suit. With this method you have the option of using a torque wrench if desired. Step 5. Select the coil housing and remove the rubber plug at the back. Step 6. Flip the coil cover over and locate the brushes in the bottom. Depress the brushes using a small allen key (or similar), and hold in that position. Insert another allen key through the exposed hole on the back, and adjust the brushes until the allen key on the back slots through them (the brushes have a hole in them for this purpose). Step 7. Put the alternator back together (taking care to align the mount tabs correctly) and bolt everything down. Be sure to gradually tighten all bolts equally as you go, then remove the allen key from the back once finished. Insert the rubber plug as best you can. Step 8. Reinstall the alternator and back in the glory of your lighter, funkier pulley.