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Found 11 results

  1. Hey there, I 3D print S13/S14/S15 products in high quality abs such as shift boot clip/brackets/retainers/knobs, gauge holders that retain air conditioning, pod filter adaptors, double cup holders that fit in the centre console etc. and much more to come. Making this post to provide you guys with top quality parts that solves the issues that come with OEM parts such as the shift boot clip snapping and cup holders not being useful whatsoever. Free standard shipping Australia wide. If you are interested feel free to check out the page https://3dracingsolutions.com/ If there are any questions or other parts needed feel free to send us a message or email.
  2. Yashio Water Temp Gauge for sale

    Hi guys, I have a Yashio Water Temp Gauge up for sale. Share it around to anyone you think might want it! No eBay links; refer to the classifieds forum rules. This isn't the NS "eBay billboard", it's the place you list your stuff with a price, for sale through NS.
  3. 1Gauge is an All-In-1 solution to your vehicles instrument needs. 1Gauge is designed to bridge the monitoring gap between a ‘flash’ tune and an aftermarket ECU. 1Gauge consolidates your vehicles vitals and displays the important information on a single easy to read display. Unlike your conventional automotive gauge, 1Gauge also has the ability to log, recall peak values and alert. 1Gauge can be customised to your specifications, with support for most of your vehicles parameters. The Ultimate Package is configured with the following Gauges: -Oil Pressure (0-75PSI) -Oil Temperature (50-150*C) -Water Temperature (50-150*C) -Manifold Air Pressure (87PSI) -Battery Voltage Fore more information or to purchase please visit: http://1gauge.com.au/ A full document of 1Gauges feature and usage can be found here: http://1gauge.com.au/1GaugeDocumentation.pdf Local Pickup Available in South Australia. Please contact sales@1gauge.com.au for any questions you may have.
  4. sold

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  5. Hey guys. I'm wiring up a few gauges onto my s13 ca18de, At the moment it's just water temp and oil pressure, I was wondering if I can just splice them into the original senders on the motor? Not to worried about looks cause in a year a new motor will be going in and gauges will to installed properly. Does anyone know where the coolant temp sender is and which wires to splice into and also with the oil pressure sender? Cheers mark
  6. Hi guys, I'm a first time poster here but I have been lurking these forums for a while. I have found a lot of the topics on the tech forum very helpful and informative. Though I have something for some of the gurus to help me out on. I have recently installed a Turbosmart boost gauge on my ADM S15. The install went well and it seems to be functioning and lighting up correctly. I immediately took it for a drive to have a look at my boost readings. I red lined through first gear, second gear and a bit of third and measured a reading of 15 psi. Now this seems a bit high as these are my only mods. - K&N panel filter - GFB Respons blow off valve (set to plumb back) - Restriction removed from stock boost controller I understand that replacing the restriction hose on the stock boost controller will gain me a few psi but I wouldn't think it would be as high as 15 psi. I'm a bit worried that something is forcing my turbo to boost this high and that some internal damage could occur in my engine or turbo. I would put the restriction hose back on to measure my readings again but I don't have it as I bought the car with the restriction removed. Could there be something wrong with the boost gauge? Or maybe the way I installed it? The vacuum hose connecting to the boost gauge are nice and tight as well as the end connecting to the T piece that connects to the fuel pressure regulator. Anyone have any thought?
  7. Just looking for recommended method for installing a Water Temperature Gauge. Is it more accurate to install the sensor: in place of the stock sensor in the radiator inlet hose Engine is a SR20DET Red Top Thanks.
  8. I have been trying to figure out a way to connect my 1/8 boost gauge line to the 4mm vacuum line. I have come across all sorts of fittings people have put together to accomplish this. I came across this fitting at work that SMC make called the Plug-in Reducer (part number:KQ2R23-04-X2). The 1/8 hard line coming out of the boost gauge plugs into the fitting and the vacuum line slips over the nozel. This setup leaks out of the vacuum line and the vacuum line also pops off after 30PSI. There are two ways around this: 1) super glue the nozel before putting the vacuum line on and adding a hose clamp for added protection (suggest not to use zip tie as this was the first thing I tried to stop the leaking air and it only made it worse as it pinches the vacuum line). I tested this with only the super glue at work and ran up to 120PSI with no failure of the connection. I couldn't push it above this because the fitting from the vacuum line to the pump kept popping off above this pressure. 2) Buy the Plug-in Reducer (part number:KQ2R04-06-X2) and plug the 4mm nozzle into the 4mm plug in socket. This gives you a 6mm nozzle which will seal properly. Suggest to use a hose clamp on this one aswell. The 6mm nozel is the same diameter as the fitting I was using to connect the vacuum line to the pump. So if you are going to run 120PSI I wouldn't suggest doing this . Sorry about the long write up but I wanted to cover everything.
  9. A-Pillar Gauge mount

    Im trying to find a good quality a pillar mount for my s14, has any one seen or bought one of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dual-Pillar-Mount-Gauge-Holders-Nissan-S13-S14-S15-Z31-/220636892017#ht_500wt_1180 seems a bit pricey for a no brander and the pics are shit so its hard to see if its any good. If anyone has any info on where to get a quality one from that would be great, looking for a dual. cheers.
  10. If you wake up dreaming of a steamy reach-around by a man in uniform, then you should consider mounting your gauges on the dashboard. Police love this. For everyone else, it's much better to just hide that sh*t so you can crab-walk over speed bumps in peace. 14psi of vacuum ftw. Difficulty = 7 Where 0 is training your dog to dump on command, and 10 is stopping them from eating it. Time Required = ~5 hours A lot of people fail where delicate work and electronics is involved, so take your time and set aside a day. Disclaimer Never go full-retard. You break it, you pay for it, etc. Tools Required Razor knife Steel ruler Soldering iron Side cutters Wire strippers Screw driver Drill + various drill bits Digital LED gauge. Got mine from Supercheap and blue was the only colour available. I am in fact straight. Various coloured wire Various small bolts and nuts Transparent blue/grey tinted plastic. I used the lid of a disposable food container. Experiment with different filters. Quality tape with a hard edge. I used 3M Scotch Brand 850 Superglue Small zip ties Thin heatshrink tubing Flux-cored solder Usage Checking boost levels without Police attention Blinding you at night Just generally looking like a sik c*nt Process Step 1. Test the boost gauge and make sure it works. My quality product needed replacement. Abuse staff as required. Step 2. Disassemble the boost gauge. If you can't figure it out, take a flat-head screwdriver and start bending things. Step 3. Mark the orientation of the LED display block, then desolder it. Step 4. Solder different coloured wires to the pins of the LED block, covering each with heat-shrink tubing. Step 5. Remove the gauge cluster from your car (unbolt and drop the steering column). Remove the cover and silver trim by pushing the tabs on the back. Step 6. Unscrew the 4 bolts retaining the speedometer, and remove it. No need to remove the needle, just spin it out of the way. Step 7. Remove the plastic dividers in the unused pocket (bottom-left of the cluster), using a razor knife and soldering iron. Wear eye protection. Step 8. Cut some notches in the plastic to slot the LED bar in place. Step 9. Route the wires through the holes in the back, position the LED bar and ziptie the wires in place. Step 10. Position the LED bar slightly below flush with the surrounding lip, and superglue in position. Step 11. Bolt the speedometer in place and mark a hole for the LED bar, using tape. Remove the speedo and carefully cut the hole using a NEW razor blade and ruler. Step 12. Cut some tinted plastic to shape, and superglue to the underside of the speedo gauge, such that the hole is covered. I will redo mine with more tint. Step 13. Install the speedo, silver trim and cluster cover. Step 14. Flip the cluster over. Remove the plastic PCB cover, drill holes and bolt the gauge PCB in place. Cover the bolt heads with cardboard and plastic tape. Step 15. Test fit the cluster in the car, to ensure the PCB mounted to the back clears everything. Step 16. Cut the LED wires to length, and solder in the correct positions using the details recorded in Step 3. Step 17. Connect the 12v line to a switch, then to power. Connect the earth and sensor, then test. My sensor was disconnected in the photos, and it really is f*cking bright.
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