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Found 159 results

  1. Hello everyone in NS land, I have just acquired an S15 SR20DET that I will be mounting in an AE86 drift car. I managed to get the motor at quite a good price as the clutch was dead and I believe the previous owner was having trouble deciding how to go about replacing it. I have had a search though this forum and through a lot of US forums (thanks to google) but wanted to check my understanding with the gurus on here before I bought parts that might not work correctly. So, I intend to put an S15 SR20det in front of a 5MT gearbox. That gearbox will be an S13/14 bellhousing connected to an R32 box (to move the shift position a little further forward in the tunnel), but in essence it will be an S13 5MT. In order for everything to connect properly will I need: - An S13/14 (Solid) Flywheel - An S13/14 puk clutch (ie a clutch plate with springs in it) - An S13/14 starter motor (not 100% sure on this one because shouldn't using the S13/14 bellhousing place the starter ring gear at the right place?) - Place a pilot bearing in the back of the crank (anyone know a part number that will fit?) - Obviously for my setup I will also require custom tailshafts, gearbox crossmembers etc as well. Does anyone else know of anything obvious I am missing? Or does that all sound OK? Thanks in advance! Cheers, -Robbo
  2. I have recently purchased a S13 Silvia (SR20DET), and I have been trying to piece together the turbo configuration, and wondering if there is anyone with a similar set up? I am interested in getting a better understanding first hand as I am not that clued onto turbo set-ups. I know what all the individual pieces are: The exhaust housing has Garrett cast into it, and the CHRA has Garrett on the name plate. I have not seen Garrett on the intake housing. CHRA - 700177-0010 MODEL - GT3076R TURBINE SIDE SIZE = 56.5 mm OUTLET = 52.0 mm TRIM = 84 COMPRESSOR SIDE SIZE = 76.2 mm INLET = 53.1 mm TRIM = 48 I have not seen the exhaust side turbine, however the intake side has seven blades, so I am assuming the exhaust has 14? This is what research is telling me anyway. Intake housing Have not been able to find a part number on the housing, however the A/R is 0.70. Exhaust housing - 449010-1 From researching it seems that this housing is internally gated, with a A/R 0.64. The turbo on my car is internally gated, however, I have not seen the A/R. The turbo has been low mounted and there is very little clearance between the intake housing and the engine mount. I am taking it to be tuned next week as my first dyno run indicated it was running a little lean, as well as the AFR fluctuating right through the rev range. It also struggles to maintain a constant idle. A bit more insight into my set-up before I take it to the tuner would be appreciated. Thanks
  3. I was driving home from work the other day and as I came around a corner the revs just died as if someone had just turned the key off in my sr20det vct s15. I got it towed home and as I started checking spark, the thing started again and ran for the rest of the night with a little bit of an issue with catching the idle after revving. Today turned it on this morning and it ran for 20 seconds and died, it's not spluttering or anything, when it runs it runs perfect, but it will die then not start again, if left for about 20 mins or so and try again it will start and idle again for 20 seconds or so and die again, ive checked the pump is working, lines are clear,there is no spark when it dies and wont start again, I have re earthed everything, tried unplugging iacv, a/f/m ect ect. the self diagnosis is showing knock sensor, cas and ignition respectivly, but is this a common characteristic of a cas? I allways thought if they broken then thats it, has anyone else had any experiance with a similar problem, knowone I ask seems to have an idea, because if its not the c.a.s then i dont know what else to try apart from e.c.u :/ please help
  4. S13/S14/S15 front castor tops - Introductory price until December 2nd @ $59/pair If you're running camber tops and you're looking for more castor this is the easiest way to go about it. Simply replace your standard strut mount with this strut top and you'll see a heap more castor, more than you ever imagined that you could have in your life. Fits all S chassis cars and most camber tops. Available to view and purchase here: http://www.gktech.com/index.php/s13-s14-s15-front-castor-tops.html?SID=de5a1174ece57385ec2fbe784aa0c0b2
  5. 180sx, FINALLY back on the road.

    Hey guys, over the period of time that I have had my licence I've owned an R32 GTS and an AE82 Twincam 20v! I have finally jumped on the turbo band wagon, and can't wait to start modding my car! I picked up this SR20DET 1994 180sx for a pretty decent price, and if you can't already tell, its clean as hell! Tell me what you think, cheers!
  6. The Life of Luko's 180

    Stole intro from new members section Hi all, I'm known by the name of Luko and live in the hills of SA I've got my hands on this 180, it looks a bit rough and has a defect right now so over the next few weeks I'm going to clean it up and register it. I bought the car off a friend who tried to put a 200 front on it, and got defected for it being too low, and then rear ended a van at 40kph. It has a kit on it but I want to take it back to stock and do my own thing. I have plans for a 5 stud conversion and some mild upgrades, would love a heap of kw's. I'm interested in getting out to Mallala too. 1995 180sx blacktop. 11xxxxkms. I'm looking forward to making a build thread very soon, and no doubt I have plenty of questions that need answers - this is my first import and modding opportunity. Thanks guys! DJETRO 256 11.5 lift. 740cc GT2871r 1200 My room....... So as of right now, I don't really know what I'm doing. It's gonna be 3 weeks before it can go into Regency, and I'll be in Thailand, so see what happens.
  7. S13 Silvia, aero 200kw

    Boring story crap, scroll to ignore This is my 1992 s13 silvia, sr20de delivered. Bought the car a few years ago with sr20det red top already in. Soon, the turbo blew, so I replaced it with a t28bb from s15. Later I was defected, not once, but twice. The 2nd time I was defected it was to regency for rear eyebrow height. On the way home, I blew the engine (she was well on her way out, so I just finished her off;) ) Engine got swapped out, fresher one with good compression put in. Turbo was shagged so that was replaced too. This car is reliable enough that I took her up to Ballina and Byron bay for Splendour in the Grass, didnt have a single hitch along the way 2013 came around, and a friend of mine told me of a track day coming up, with lots of track time promised up at Tailem Bend. Having never drifted track, don't even have coilovers, I decided I would go anyway. The event was All Day Powerplay. So I drove up, did some skids, and drove home. Then decided to borrow some coilovers for Stadium Drift rd 1, so drove up for that and drove home again. Bought my own suss, BC BRs 8f, 6r and put them in the night before Stadium Drift rd 2, drove the car up, drove home again Fun fun. Engine & Driveline SR20det red top Garret gt2871rs Tomei dump 3" Advanced down pipe 2 1/2 inch catback Walbro fuel pump GKTECH rocker arm stoppers ISC Alloy radiator (s14 rad broke) Samco rad hoses NISTUNE ecu Front mount retaining most stock piping lobster intake pipe for mad dose Gizzmo EBC Tightly shimmed LSD s15 injectors Tuned by Jaustech, 194kw at 15.6 psi / 200kw at 17psi Interior R32 GTR drivers seat Bride fixed back drivers seat for track Autometer boost gauge dash mat GKTECH steering wheel 150mm Dildo shifter, pink in colour for sex appeal. Exterior NISMO LMGT1 wheels F 17x8 R 17x9 NISMO aero front bumper with vents NISMO aero side skirts Chargespeed rear bar GTR style grille Euro style tail lights Suspension & Brakes BC BR coilovers, F: 8kg R: 6kg super pro steering rack bushes Front strut brace GKTECH rear strut brace KKR adjustable castor rods new tie rod ends r32 GTST front brakes Braided lines to suit Project MU NS pads DBA slotted rotors on rear Project MU D1 spec pads Whiteline adjustable front swaybar r32 GTR rear swaybar On defect going to a mates for engine swap Old front bar, on defect etc. Old turbo with damage shown (pretty sure it tried to eat something) And a shiny new turbo Bolted up to fresh SR20 red top
  8. Hey all, A few of you may know me, but some may not... I'm Jack, I've been into imports for a few years now. When i started looking for my first import i was looking all over for an s13 or onevia. I ended up buying an r32 gtst because i just wanted a car fast and i wanted to start learning how to drift. Been drifting for 3 or so years now and the car got out of hand very quickly. Its sporting a heap of mods, and is a full track car now. I love the car to pieces, however being a track only drift car i have no import to drive on the street anymore. I figured, the whole point of owning a car is to drive it around, but because i no longer have a jap car on the street its pretty depressing i have to drive my commodore ute around. As much as its a good daily, i get zero enjoyment out of it and its not who i am. Sooooo... That has bought me to this new project. I bought this s13 off a mate the other week. it has a large range of mods and i got it at a reasonable price due to it being unregistered. He had owned the car for a few years, but wasnt massively into cars. It came to an abrupt hault when he got defected for too low after just installing brand new bc coilovers... Due to his lack of motivation for the car to be on the road and going overseas and stuff, the car sat in storage for almost a year. So i picked it up the other week, and drove it to my garage where i work on my cars. Below ive posted a current mod list, it has lots of goodies which was almost too much for me, but it will be good in the long run. Current Mods: rebuilt blacktop sr20det garrett t28 ball bearing turbz dr drift daughter board ecu tuned at 198rwkw brand new hks evc6 boost controller with hand new z32 afm front mount intercooler acid dipped to clean the crap out/off it greddy catch can metal intake pipe blitz pod filter metal intake pipe aloy radiator split dump pipe 3" zorst with dump stile muffler so not to loud and discrete oil filter relocation kit with oil cooler front mounted bosch 910 external fuel pump 450hp jap s15 480cc injectors engine brace modified vn thermo fan turbosmart plumbback bov blocked off drive line: BC coils aftermarket camber, castor and tie rods arms all pilow mounted tie rod spacers r32 skyline front brakes proffesionaly welded r180 diff with 4'3 ratios plus some others s14 box rear subframe pinapples now soild bushs heavy duty button clutch front and rear strut braces exterior: two tone champaine over grey new rear window seals repaired front window seals new wipper blades jap 17"x8 and 17"x9 rims granador mirrors rare wind deflector new clear front bar indicators new clear corner lamps/indicators j's square headlights interior: new s15 front seats drift shift light nardi steering wheel 3X genuwine greddy oil press, oil temp, water temp white face gauges with sencors hks evc6 control unit sony head unit alpine type s 6" fronts alpine 6x9" rears drift hand brake Plans for the build: The main aim for this build is to make an (almost) legal street car that i can have abit of fun with in the hills(not drifting), go to meets, really nice clean s13 that i am proud to drive around and something that will make me happy whenever i drive it. A lot of people are against street cars now due to our harsh road rules and laws, but this car will only be a weekender. The look i am going for is an oldschool usdm inspired onevia. For those that dont know, it will basically have the roof racks, lowish, balloon tires on 15's, front lip, etc, but i want to keep it simple and old. If any of you are like me, as soon as i had the idea of buying the car in my head i just went crazy(cray cray) and started buying stuff, before i had even put a deposit on the car. hahah The beginning: The first thing i began to to with the car was take off all the parts i didnt want... This consisted of s15 front seats weathershields Weds wheels FMIC BOV POD s13 front end carbon boot I sold the parts and started looking for replacements for them all to suit my style/needs. Parts aquired so far: So i set off looking on Yahoo Japan for wheels first, cos lets be honest wheels make a car and it would be a good start to the build seeing as tho the car currently had poor offset and sized wed's wheels. I found some SSR MKII in 15x7.5+6 and 15x8+13 which i quite liked, so i contacted Jesse streeter and we got the ball rolling. i ended up winning the wheels for abit less than i thought they wre going to go for. Which is always a good thing. So they are on the way over from Japland now. I got a ripper deal on a whole 180 front from a guy up in the hills, who was parting a whole 180 for a track car, he gave me all the panels, lights, fuseboxes, looms, etc which i needed for the conversion. I am still yet to put it on because there are a few things i need to fix first. I got an r32 gtr sway bar off my cousin for the rear to stiffen that up abit. Pignose front bar and ca front lip, both genuine. Apexi turnflow FMIC standard air box R32 gtst front seats Nismo aero skirts for s13 Standard mirrors GK tech radiator overflow bottle GK tech radiator shroud Also currently have a mate over in the us who may "aquire" some californian plates for me... could be a good little touch to the car at the end. i attached some pics of the car as i bought it, and the wheels, new fmic, and what i hope it will turn out like. Parts still needed: Origin roof spoiler jdm square fog lights for inside the front bar Tires for the ssr's Thule Roof racks with a custom wind fairing Change front brakes back to standard sr to clear the wheels. Will keep updating as i go. Hope you enjoy the build as much as i hope to. Jack.
  9. 92' Nissan 180sx 'Sienna'

    Hi Guys, Finally decided to join my fellow Nissansilvia brethren and create an account and post Just wanna introduce you all to my recently purchased & daily driven 180 'Sienna' Motor, Transmission, Exhaust & Mechanical. -1992 -Redtop - Non VCT SR20DET -182,734kms -5 Speed - Short Shifter -Pod-filter -3" to 2.5" GKtech Cooler - not return feed so a huge hole in the battery plate -Standard Cat, Removed mufflers & some cannon Interior. -Climate Control - all working condition, gets hot & cold QUICK ! only drama is I can't get half the module illuminated - changed bulbs (out of ideads) -Electric Windows -Black Nismo Gear Knob -Immobiliser, Central locking & Alarm system -Greddy Turbo timer -Drift Button -'Personal' Steering wheel -R32 GTR Front seats Steering & Suspension. -5-Stud Conversion - Not sure whether they're modified original hubs, R33 or Ford - they're a weird setup (hopefully will post pics) -R32 GTR wheels - Bunnings Warehouse Matte Black can job ;p -Standard Springs in Pedders struts - Came with 'G4 Racing' Front coilovers - never heard of the brand but were noisy as f**k Paint. -Hideous Silver Respray - Bonnet and roof sprayed black (86 panda style wannabe) It's pretty rough, not very clean an obvious backyard job. The car was originally white.. I wish the previous owner left it white Temporary plans are to throw it back on coilovers, gloss black Ford territory wheels and bump up the boost to 11/12PSI Eventual Plans. 200RWK - T28BB -16/17PSI, Z32 AFM, Full Turbo back exhaust, Upgraded exhaust manifold, S15 or nismo 555 Injectors, R32 or walbro/bosch Fuel Pump & Nistune Full type X Kit (including Spoiler) & interior Respray back to white - hopefully blue pearl in it too Sunroof Tien or BCs coilovers sitting just neat on Volk CE28n's or a set of black XD9's Feel free to throw some comments, opinions and tips etc if ya got some. cheers, xo.
  10. Hi people, I was wondering if anyone has any experience with these particular bleed vales? Look at this on eBay: ADJUSTABLE BLUE BOOST CONTROLLER S13 S14 S15 R32 R33 VL http://www.ebay.com....#ht_4284wt_1039 They are quite cheap on eBay. Or should I stick to gfb or turbosmart Steve ***NOTE TO OP, I HAVE REMOVED YOUR VIRUS URL AND REPLACED IT WITH THE EBAY LINK, DOUBLE CHECK THE URL BEFORE LINKING ON THE FORUM *** - ONE_VIA_S13
  11. SR20DET questions

    Hi guys. I've done a basic search but haven't found a lot of info I need. I am new to working with motors, and even more so performance motors. I have more of a suspension and gearing knowledge background. So I have chosen to use an SR20DET with a C4 Auto and an LT230 transfer case in my soon to be rock crawler/offroad racer. What I would like to know is: - Before I make one. Are there any available SR bell housing to C4 box adaptors? -While keeping engine life as a consideration, what can I do to get some more power out of the motor with stock internals and how much could I expect? -how much should I expect the mods to cost? - I will be running a water to air intercooler, what size and length of piping should I aim for to keep lag at a minimum? The C4 will be manualised with a 2200-2500 stall, so I would like boost to come on about there. Cheers, Dan.
  12. Ok so i've owned my S13 for about 8 years and i decided the other night to finally do a build thread, I spent about 3 hours going from the start and then my computer froze and lost everything I had done, so i'm not going thru that shit again so i'll just tell a rough history and then go into more detail about the most recent changes.... I bought it as a stock ca18det and it was painted hot house green http:// htt:// A couple of years ago the cheap stainless high mount manifold i had cracked so got a custom steampipe one made by Sonny at powertune.. http:// Also a couple of years ago I got sick of it being green so got it sprayed V35 skyline pearl white.. http:// About a year and a half ago E85 came to a servo just down the street so filled the tank with it and then went road tuning with my best mate Jez, then got it on the dyno, made 298rwkw on 21psi with the injectors maxed... [url="http://
  13. sr20det ke70 *HIT AND RUN*

    Hi ladies an gents! This here is my 1983 ke70 bought about 10 months or so ago, had a good zenki 2-way diff an a tired but good 4age in it, drove it daily an tracked it for about 6-7 months done some local days an went to winton to do the matsuri.... slowly started modding it including front sleeve kit. wider wheels, boss kit, nardi wheel, fixie etc... then being a 'jones' i got over the little 4age pretty fast... an a mate smashed his s15 an wanted peanuts for the drive train... so i picked the motor box etc up from his (50 metres down the road) ripped the 4age shit out an sold it all for more then the sr stuff cost me:) strted lookking for a good diff to convert an found on so close (my gagrage) a early model hilux diff was soon faricated to fit the ke's rear end done a bunch of other shit that i cant really be f**ked mentioning, but heres a quick list of what its got.... SR20det black top aus spec s15 motor bosch coil packs micro tech ecu s13 5 speed exedy HD clutch one piece tail shaft custom fabricated mounts hilux diff with twin vs commodore calipers on slotted R31 discs flat boot floor with battery fuel cell surge tank etc PBM coilovers all round custom fabricated half cage welded in new carpet. painted black trim chase bays hydro moded firewall tube front end quad head light front end ssr 14x9 -25 MK3's & ssr star formula 14x9 -25 ( rears ) ssr reverse mesh 14x8.5 -17 ( fronts atm ) all i can think of atm... but here's some pics how i first got it... then after afew mods ( wheels, coilover front, fix back, more low... etc) then it cam off the road an got a rebuild
  14. These aftermarket ISC 52mm dual core radiators are fantastic value for money! They are a direct bolt on replacement for your standard unit and will help to keep your engine temperature at an all time low when driving your vehicle hard whether it be on the street or on the track. RB20DET = $329 SR20DET S13 = $329 SR20DET S14/S15 = $329 RB25DET = $329 RB26DETT = $329 We have recently introduced this newly designed tube and fin intercooler kits into our large range of products. The interccoler itself is approx 40% lighter then another style of cooler (bar and plate). Each intercooler is polished and pressure tested after manufacturing to assure the highest level of quality for our customers. The core is also desinged with an oval tube to increase air flow and reduce turbulence making the cooling more efficient and better for over all performance. The intercooler kits include a "tube and fin core" along with polished pipe work, clamps, brackets, silicon hoses, zip ties, washers, nuts, bolts and basically anything else needed for installation. Kits are available for: Skyline R32gtst = $499 Skyline R33gtst = $499 Skyline R34gtt = $499 Silvia S13 (sr20det) = $499 Silvia S14 = $499 Silvia S15 = $499 ON SALE FOR $399
  15. G'day! How awesome is the S14a 200SX and the SR20DET!!! I'm an engineer from Adelaide with a 1997 S14a. Had one in Sydney around 2002, but was stolen by professional thieves. This one was from the country, owned by a 60 year old spirited woman for last 12 years. Has a Veilside kit, or more likely a copy. I've got my mechanic Larry to convert it from auto to manual (anyone want an auto conversion kit?). Had ongoing engine lack of power / running rough problems, but reckon just solved them with help from Factory Manual and computer (seems heated oxygen sensor). In engineering I've specialised in noise and vibrations (acoustics) for 15 years, so can provide insight and help in these areas. For example muffler acoustics and vibration and resonances are my thing. I've especially joined so I can write up the story of the difficult problem I've had with my S14a, in case it helps other SR20DET owners to track down their own problems. Cheers, Ben
  16. These aftermarket ISC 52mm dual core radiators are fantastic value for money! They are a direct bolt on replacement for your standard unit and will help to keep your engine temperature at an all time low when driving your vehicle hard whether it be on the street or on the track. RB20DET = $329 SR20DET S13 = $329 SR20DET S14/S15 = $329 RB25DET = $329 RB26DETT = $329 We have recently introduced this newly designed tube and fin intercooler kits into our large range of products. The intercooler itself is approx 40% lighter then another style of cooler (bar and plate). Each intercooler is polished and pressure tested after manufacturing to assure the highest level of quality for our customers. The core is also desinged with an oval tube to increase air flow and reduce turbulence making the cooling more efficient and better for over all performance. The intercooler kits include a "tube and fin core" along with polished pipe work, clamps, brackets, silicon hoses, zip ties, washers, nuts, bolts and basically anything else needed for installation. Kits are available for: Skyline R32gtst = $499 Skyline R33gtst = $499 Skyline R34gtt = $499 Silvia S13 (sr20det) = $499 Silvia S14 = $499 Silvia S15 = $499 SALE PRICE $399 LIMITED TIME
  17. -$1499 PER SET ISC N1 **$1199 (limited time only) -AUSTRALIAN MADE THRUST KIT ($100-cost price) -$750 PER PAIR -$50 PER EXTRA SPRING -12 MONTHS WARRANTY -CHOOSE YOUR OWN SPRING RATE AT NO EXTRA COST -32 STEP DAMPER ADJUST -HEIGHT ADJUST -BOUND ADJUST -CAMBER TOPS -EXTRA CAMBER ADJUST VIA BOTTOM BRACKET -NON GENERIC -AS USED BY AUSTRALIA'S TOP DRIFTERS RYAN PROBERT-0413804117 VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR MORE INFORMATION.......ISC WEBSITE ISC coilovers were first distributed in Australia in early 2006. The coilovers have been sold through out Asia, America and Europe for over 10 years with a very positive response. Our coilovers are produced at our own workshop by qualified technicians, designers and quality control personnel. Some of the designing is now carried out by our very own team in Australia making the coilovers more suitable for the Australian market. In 2006 our company supported Danny Vahoumis "the godfather of drift" through sponsorship. Danny proved the durability of our products at the top level of Drift in Australia, collecting podium finishes along the way. In 2007 ISC supported the Wheelworx 3 car DA team consisting of Tom Monkhouse, Adam May and Linden Reynolds. Once again this demonstrated that our coilovers can perform at the highest level of motorsport, this was evident when Tom Monkhouse finished first at RD3 in Eastern Creek. Over time our products have become more popular, thus constantly updating our performance range in order to bring you the best quality products at an affordable price. Currently we are sponsoring Danie Prior in his 1.5JZ S13 silvia, In 2011 Daniel was very consistent qualifying at the top of the field in each round and also finished 2nd and 4th outright in 2 rounds. The silvia currently competes in the SA G1 series but hopefully in the future it will compete in a variety of events around Australia. Another car we are currently sponsoring is the ISC Time Attack S14, this car has the whole ISC suspension package along with other ISC parts such as radiator, intercooler etc. The car has competed in 5 local Time Attack events finishing 2nd,1st,1st,2nd,2nd in RWD OPEN Class, the car also travelled to Winton for the 2011 SAUNATS and took out 2nd place in open class (first time on the track). ISC Australia has just released new thrust bearing kits for its range of N1 coilovers. These kits are manufactured in Australia, using high quality Japanese bearings. The addition of the bearing kit to your coilovers will add faster and smoother steering response, and allows better spring compression. Another huge bonus is that it takes a lot of stress away from the pillowball giving it a longer life. Kits are available for purchase with N1 coilovers for an additional $100 (below cost price) or can be purchased seperately for $149 a pair.
  18. My Supermade 180sx Build

    Hey Peeps thought id quickly upload some pics of my 180sx. Orginally a sil80 drift car then was going to do a s14 front but decided on going for a full supermade 180 because i love the kit. This is very much a budget build as ive done everything myself except for a couple things which ive been helped by a mate with. Theres a few little things on it i like and arnt too common like the S14 interior, s14 paint and the custom BA bonnet and also alot i need to finish off. Anyway heres a few progress pics for ya, feedback would be great INTERIOR PICS ENGINE BAY AND EXTERIOR PICS
  19. Rebirth of beloved s13

    Just going to post a few pics of my pride and joy
  20. Hey Everyone, Im bought a rolling body 1995 s14 Factory sr20det, and i have a sr20de+t s15 engine ive decied to put in, im runny a sr20de eu and loom, plugs in mint, im missing a few parts tho ill put picture up soon, ive hooked it all up and its getting fuel, but no spark everything else seems to be working, just wondering since the sr20det are coil pack that the body plug in is different or something or the parts im missing are causing the problem?? need help Thanks
  21. Hey guys, I've seemed to have abandoned the supra forums that I have grown a home to, to gain your knowledge about the silvia s15's! My sister owns a silvia s15 sr20det spec-s and will be selling it soon after I work out some tweaks and faults. I have seem to have hit a dead end with a 'ticking noise' that is coming from the right side of the motor (facing towards the front of the car, opposite the battery side). It is a constant 'tick tick tick' while sitting on idle, but once revving the car, starts to speed up. I have filmed the sound and have uploaded it on youtube for you guys to see. It actually sounds worse on the video than what it seems to be much appreciated if you guys can shed some wisdom upon the problem im facing! thanks once again! oh and also... i am fixing the boot lid cable that connects to the side of the driver seat, pulling it doesn't seem to open it anymore aha! would love to grab some help on that also. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cclcm_u6ENk&context=C43be9b7ADvjVQa1PpcFPxrA9G4b4e9I_lHl_tKB0itDMp58Fms6E=
  22. GT28RS AFR?

    I was reading on a other post that a gt28rs will damage your engine with out a tune cause of air fuel ratios My setup on my redtop 180 will be fmic,bov, full exhaust,manifold, gt28rs, apexi pod,profec a and HKS AFR my car has stock injectors and fuel pump Question is can I boost it to it's maximum potential safely because I have a HKS AFR?
  23. Package 1 = $425 (normally $517) Adjustable rear camber Adjustable rear traction Adjustable rear toe Package 2 = $499 (normally $676) Adjustable rear camber Adjustable rear traction Adjustable rear toe Adjustable stabiliser bar Package 3 = $349 (normally $437) Adjustable rear camber Adjustable rear traction Adjustable rear hicas Package 4 = $699 (normally $875) Adjustable rear camber Adjustable rear toe Adjustable rear traction Adjustable stabiliser bar Adjustable front castor If purchased seperatly: Adjustable rear camber = $179 Adjustable rear toe = $179 Adjustable rear traction = $159 Adjustable rear stabiliser = $159 Hicas lock bar = $99 Adjustable front castor = $199 Alloy subframe spacers = $125 R32 front adjustable camber = $349 R33/R34 front adjustable camber = $399 Silvia front adjustable LCA = $399 Silvia rear adjustable LCA = $449 350z adjustable rear toe = $199 350z adjustable rear camber = $199 silvia strengthened tie rod kit = $199 PU silvia engine mounts = $125 PU silvia gearbox mounts = $125 PU silvia engine and g/box mounts = $225 Whiteline adjustable swaybars = $249 each Hydraulic handbrakes = $249
  24. is any one on here Running solid lifter form BLE i wanted to know see how good they are a or if i should go with the VE solid lifters
  25. Intro Hi friends, Bought my car recently and really like the idea of keeping a journal-type thing so feel free to ignore this thread as it's more of a personal scrapbook thread of my car and the learning curve which I'm undertaking, rather than a build thread. When I bought htis car, I had zero clue about engine and mechanics, literally the only thing I knew about was how to check the oil. But anyways; I've been driving a 2009 Hyundai Getz for a few years, it's the bottom of the line 1.4L manual but hell, I love the hills anyway and learnt to drive through the hills in it, generally to the surprise of other car owners who love the hills when I can pretty well keep up with a lot of the people I come across. Started driving in 2009 with my mates in their corollas and volvos and whatever the hell we had to drive. My best driving mate drives an AE82 and we used to just go up through the hills a few times a week - this helped me realise you really don't need power to go quick in the hills. So, present day, I was a few phone calls away from purchasing an '02 Renault Clio Sport.. was pretty much in the 'hot hatch' mindset of things, didn't even care that it looks like a humpback whale from the back. Then I started hanging out with an old mate again working on his S13 (which has been sitting in his garage for a bit over 2 years collecting dust) and, well, it pretty much reignited hopes and dreams blah blah that I had when I was like 15 so a few days later we saw a 180sx for the right price on these forum classifieds and I thought "screw it" so for $3,800 off a dealer(?) I ended up with a running, automatic 1991 SR20DET 180sx that was in some serious need of some TLC. The Car 158,xxx KM's SR20DET (running) Automatic Black, half the clear coat missing.. The day I looked at it it (10/12) The day I collected it (12/12) The guy seemed kind enough to throw in a set of stock rear struts as there was some reported knocking by one of the mechanics, later on we saw that the stock ones were pretty screwed and the bushes were basically gone but not to worry... Day 1 Solved problems: - engine fluids probably hadn't been changed in about 30,000 km - a wish list of stickers on the bonnet (apexi, greddy, hks etc etc...) Took her up to my mate's shed where the first thing he proceeded to do was get a razor blade and scratch off the big Need for Speed-style decal on the rear window that said "UNDRGRND KING". Pity, I really liked being an undrgrnd king. We did a few little things like changing the fluids (engine oil, coolant, fuel filter, oil filter, spark plugs). It was unreal how much of a power/response increase doing this made. It was pretty clear by this point that whoever had owned the car last did not give a fuck about this car. He/she had tried to re-trim the interior and it was a delicious stained yellow vinyl colour with plenty of dirt on it. My mate ended up having a spare 180sx door lying outside in the sun so I scavenged the trim from it. It'd been weathered for probably 18 months but it was much of an improvement. Did general cleaning and other cosmetic stuff, ended up replacing the stock airbox for a mounted pod filter as well. Day 2 Solved problems: - no boost getting to the engine Car didn't start this morning.. my mate ended up spraying some carby cleaner inside the throttle body and she started to run.. then we switched off the ignition and the engine kept running, dieseling. How odd, right? Anyway, the turbo was boosting but not getting a feed through to the engine.. ended up quickly dropping past Adelaide Jap Imports and seeing if they would take a quick look at it (absolute champs) and they saw straight away that the wastegate circlip had come off. Went to the shed, fixed this, no more wasted boost! Day 3 Solved problems: - timing waaay out - rear struts knocking - chopped springs at the front, waaay too low - bare brake pads - Worn & missing sway bar bushes Swapped over the stupid struts on all fours that were on the car and replaced brake pads on the front (that had pretty much worn past their warning pins.....). Had issues that we'd noticed from Day 2 where the engine idle was around 1700 RPM and dropping up and down.. as in idling at 1700 then dropping to 1200 then back up to 1700. Went to pick up some new bushes for the front sway bars from Japanese Import Spares and got the owner to take a quick look as to why it was idling wrong.. he saw straight away that the bolt was in the wrong position so we manually adjusted it later that day and lo & behold, perfect 800~ RPM idling. Decided that we were going to try and smash out the auto-> manual conversion and overnight, so we christened the car with chinese beforehand. The donor for gearbox, clutch, pedals & everything else needed. Got to about 1:30am and we'd only taken out the pedals from a donor S14 write-off, drilled housings for the clutch and installed the S14 brake pedal in the 180sx so we decided to just call it a night since we were so overtired already and the weather was hot as. Day 4 Solved problems: - Car wouldn't start again, ended up managing to make it start by feathering the accelerator. By this point it seems that the car won't start when cold, but when warm it's fine - leads me to thinking it's something to do with either the coolant temp sensor or the ECU taking incorrect readings. We pulled up at the shed in preparation for a day's work on the car, sat down, lit a smoke and about 30 seconds later the coolant pipes burst, dumping all my beautiful new coolant onto the floor and sending a shitload of steam out of the engine bay for a solid few minutes. At least my bay is now steam cleaned right? Car is currently sitting in the shed, waiting on getting it towed to another mate's shed where we will finish the manual conversion, take a look at the coolant temp sensor and try and figure out why the hell it overheated to the point of unleashing my coolant pipes. Good news is it looks as though the pipes are the transmission lines so can just carry straight on with the manual conversion and not worry about reattaching the hoses. Current problems: - Not starting when cold - Coolant pipes just chilling somewhere down near the gearbox - Something wrong with either the coolant temp sensor, ECU readings, fan clutch or thermostat. Maybe all of them! Plans - Either get a decent paintjob or wrap the car with vinyl wrap... - R33 seats or something similar - Complete onevia/sileighty swap with my mate's s13 Much, much more to come.
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