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cody Casale

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About cody Casale

  • Rank
    Standard Member

General Info

  • Location
    Australia NSW
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    1990 silvia ca18det
  1. 1991 Nissan Silvia S13 2.0t - $4,950

    Make : NISSAN SILVIA Transmission : Manual Kilometres : 0 Price : $4,950 Condition : Used BUMP
  2. 1991 Nissan Silvia S13 2.0t - $4,950

    Make : NISSAN SILVIA Transmission : Manual Kilometres : 0 Price : $4,950 Condition : Used BUMP
  3. S13 Silvia Parts - $75

    Price : $75 Condition : Used S13 silvia tail lights - good condition S13 Silvia dual projector headlights- cracked glass and have had some brackets removed- only for parts. S13 front castor rods- good condition S13 ca18de rocker covers- good condition with gaskets I need all of these items taken, offer me a price for all of them. call or text: 0488056444
  4. Make : NISSAN SILVIA Transmission : Manual Kilometres : 0 Price : $4,950 Condition : Used For sale: (NSW) 1991 Nissan Silvia Q's SR20DET Price and price conditions: $6500 FIRM Condition: Used - 160,xxx km's, Rego until Feb 15, 2014 Pictures: See Below Contact Details: PM / Mobile:0409000056 / Email: cody.casale@gmail.com Location: Sydney/Alexandria NSW Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Pickup only Payment: Cash or Bank Transfer This car is mechanically sound and runs great. Was never used for drifting of any sort, I only used it to drive around town. Originally a ca18de The car was originally red, but the previous owner painted the car black with a dark purple metallic in it. The engine bay and inside the boot are still red. The paint isn't perfect and has some spider cracking in areas. Could have these areas redone or just have the car resprayed. The car needs an alignment. I have decided to sell because I want to get a hatchback to carry more things in the back. No trades. If interstate buyer: I will remove rego and you will have to buy the car unregistered. This would be perfect for someone wanting to do a original restoration, or someone who wants to turn it into a track car/ drift car. Specs: SR20DET Blacktop from 1998 180sx type x Stock SR side mount intercooler, stock piping, stock turbo 5 speed manual 180sx type x gearbox factory bov removed, but will be included with sale. Only mod to the engine is a apexi pod filter and apexi adaptor Brand New Exedy Heavy Duty clutch, installed 2 months ago. SR20det front calipers and rotors (slotted) Project Mu b-spec pads all around stock shocks/springs s14 front and rear seats SR steering wheel digital climate control factory style jaycar "response" radio ca18 stock wheels Silvia K's front bumper in original condition, never been cut for a front mount. pioneer speakers front and rear, rear speakers are 6x9 Mint dash, no cracks. It is a HUD dash, but the car no longer has a digital cluster or HUD. Now there is a standard analog cluster and a custom HUD block off cover to cover the hole. gtr style slat grill dual projector headlights No rust under the rocker panels straight chassis rails Photos:
  5. Digital Cluster/Hud into Type X?

    Where the cluster sub loom connects to the main body loom, there is no splicing or tape or anything- just clean plug connections. The only taped up area is here: (spliced into the sub loom that goes to the middle connector for the cluster- which I believe powers the turn signals?) yeah the fact that my Ca cluster had illumination makes me wonder if that wire is for the turn signals- With every cluster swapped in, the turn signals worked as I did a test drive around the block back to my house. Something weird happened this morning when driving to work with the cluster w/ the resistor (which came with the car), the turn signals weren't working? So I decided to plug in the hazard switch, and it worked- and then the turn signals started working. Is this normal? I will try and fiddle with a multimeter- I haven't used one much- but I'm guessing to hold it on the bare wire and check if the amperage goes up when I turn on the turn signals or illumination? Or, I could try disconnecting that wire, and connecting it back into the subloom and see what happens?
  6. Digital Cluster/Hud into Type X?

    or maybe i'm seeing things, and that red wire isn't really part of the analog sub loom?
  7. Digital Cluster/Hud into Type X?

    ^ Well I am not sure about the temp gauge- I didn't run it for long so it might of still been cold. But indeed the lights didn't work at all- no illumination at all. When you say- 'dont worry about the red wire, was possibly used for an alarm at some point', are you saying that I can disconnect it and re-join it to the analog loom and the cluster should still work fine (granted the resistor is still there)? Do you think the digital cluster didn't have illumination because that one wire from the analog cluster was still attached while I was testing the digital cluster?
  8. Digital Cluster/Hud into Type X?

    I just spoke with the seller and asked him about the red wire, and he said this: "As for the red wire, I wouldn't have a clue about it. I asked the guys I bought it off and they didn't know either, but they did say that after they did the motor swap and took out the white faced cluster to put in the other one, the tacho wouldn't work. After some research their was some compatibility issues that could be fixed by a resistor or something that was put across 2x screws on the back of the gauge cluster. They said you should be able to see it easily and they found out about the problem on nissansilvia.com.au forums section. Sorry I can't be of much help, and I don't know if it will fix your "light-up" problems, but hopefully the website might be able to." As you can see in the photo of the back of the gauge cluster, there is indeed a resistor on those two screws. The weird thing is, I plugged in another gauge cluster that didn't have this resistor and it worked fine with no issues? Yet my CA cluster did have this problem. I could try putting that resistor onto my CA cluster and see if it works. I am wondering if this has anything to do with switching from a CA cluster to an SR cluster? Either way, it still doesn't answer why the red wire is there?
  9. Digital Cluster/Hud into Type X?

    Hey thanks for the reply! I have been testing some spare analog clusters I have into this car and seeing what works and what doesn't work. They all work (the ones supplied from the seller), but when I try and put my analog cluster from my CA into this car, the rpm gauge doesn't work? But they all work fine in the CA car? anyhow, here are some photos: photo of engine, type X SR I believe? build plate: gauge cluster: back of cluster (standard ca/sr cluster I believe): Now on to the analog loom / red spliced wire wire coming off the loom: Any idea if this is needed?
  10. I have a CA18 silvia, that I added a Digital cluster and HUD to, along with its subloom to get it to work, plug and play. Now I have a silvia with a black top SR, and want to use my digital cluster and HUD in that car, with its subloom. While getting ready to test its compatibility, I noticed that when removing the analog subloom from the car, for some reason whoever did the swap ran one single red (power?) wire from that analog subloom to the ignition. I am not sure if the analog cluster that is in the car was originally from a type x or not. However, the car does have the digital climate control now (originally a ca car), which brings me to believe that the entire interior loom from the type-x was swapped in. However, what is that one red wire going to the ignition for? Anyhow, I unplugged the analog subloom and plugged in the digital subloom and left that one red wire connected to the ignition and connected up my digital cluster. Nothing worked, no rpm gauge, fuel gauge, or temp gauge -or any lights, but the digital speedo was working perfectly. I drove up and down the street and it worked fine, just like in the other car. Now- is there an easy way to get the rest of the other stuff to work on the cluster? Could it have to do with that red wire? Maybe if I disconnect that red wire everything might have worked? Yes, I am aware that usually you cannot run a non type x analog cluster with a type x motor/loom. Any help would be appreciated.
  11. I want the fabric because it is original. Call me crazy, but I like that stock interior, along with the stock radio etc etc. Sooner or later these will become sought after and having them in this trim is quite hard to find. I have a mint set of these seats, but want a backup.
  12. Hi, I am trying to find some of the same seat fabric that was used in the early model nissan silvia's and 180sx's. The grey tweed/ potato sack style material, whatever you call it. I know these were an import only to australia, so would it be best to search in Japan for it? See photos:
  13. s13 Factory "Look" Radio how-to guide

    ^ Not sure of you question exactly, but there is a usb port, and I would usually plug my iphone cord into it if it needs a charge. Or you can use it to play mp3's from that port on a flash drive imported from itunes. Or you can plug a aux cord in and play music from your iphone direct via itunes. Also a slot for a sd card. I'm sure you know this?
  14. Hey all, So I have been contemplating this for quite some time now. the problem: Many of these cars no longer have the factory radio/ stereo, and are fitted with a modern day ugly, over designed flashy gaudy head unit's. The solution: Buy the Jaycar Radio/ MP3 Player and do some modifications to make it look factory. Modifications: 1. sand the silver off the volume knob up to 1200 grit and lighty polish for a satin finish. 2. sand off the response and model numbers in the upper center portion of the unit, to 1200 and lightly polish. 3. mount the outer trim piece to the head unit and hold the head unit in place behind/flush with the plastic pocket. As you will see, the holes dont line up with the holes in the metal brackets, but that is ok! The whole point is that you want the head unit to sit "flush" with the pocket, so mark one hole on each side, which should be right in the center of the embossed "CD" in the metal brackets. Screw the head unit in place. Remount the whole pocket and head unit back in and push the black plastic trim back in place. The photos below should be your result, this is a great solution- it has an aux port, usb port and a simple to use radio. The last step is to pair it up with a analog climate control unit for the clean late 80's/ early 90's look. I encourage others to try this out who are also looking for this look.
  15. Hey all, this might sound crazy, but my silvia has a type x SR, hence the digital climate control. It works very well and all, but it doesn't fit the theme of the interior i'm going for and want to swap in an analog unit. Can I simply un plug the digital and plug in the analog or is the same issue when doing the reverse (more common) conversion? thanks
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