Jump to content

H-TownDrifter

Standard Member
  • Content count

    69
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About H-TownDrifter

  • Rank
    H-Town Drifter
  • Birthday 04/28/1983

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

General Info

  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    S14 Silvia, sr20det, trust cams, Link Computer, Steampipe Custom Manifold, td05hr 16g 10.5t twin scroll turbo, trust 740cc, 3" str8 exhaust, 500x300x100 ic, custom alluminium intake piping, triple core 45mm alloy radiator, deloomed wiring
  1. a joke, the aussie dollar is worth more than ours..... lost on some i guess. or maybe its just not that funny. anyway.
  2. Here in NZ we love drifting (and from the redbull world drifting championships - are better at it than the aussies too - with mad mike widdet finishing in the great 8) and to go along with that, it would seem that we get alot of gtr front cuts imported into nz, and most people like bolt on parts, so they buy an expensive (nz$2500) r33 gts-t box to put on the back of their rb26. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Nissan/Gear-boxes/auction-257187453.htm $800 kiwi dollars for an r33 gtr box on our version of ebay, thats like $25 aussie dollars. buy it, make yourself some money.
  3. im glad to see that there are at least two helpful people out there. your help is much appreciated. thanks for the links guys. lots of good information there. cheers
  4. i know what i need to do - as in the big picture - as you have described, but i'm looking for people who have actually done this before, as i have some specific questions for them, ie regarding how they setup their driveshaft etc
  5. Yes i agree with that 100% You will sell it for good $$$ since GTR owners would want it Then u buy an R33 rear wheel drive box - same box, possibly in better condition, and cheaper Put the money u saved into hookers and coke in nz gtr boxs are way cheaper than r33 gts-t boxs. as much as i would like to have put the extra cash into hookers and coke, unfortunately its not to be. lol
  6. if i wanted people to tell me not to do this i would have gone onto a honda forum and asked them. you guys are weak for suggesting that i take the easy road!!!! if you want some background information that has lead me to deciding to do this, then sweet as - read on... The Easiest way as you point out is to spend lots of money, for sure.......... eg in NZ a good r33 gts-t box costs about 2000 - 2500. plus i would need an adapter plate to change to sr cost = $400. so total about $3k i got this gtr box in a mean deal for $400. i already have a spare sr bell housing, so combine that with a bit of research, hard work and planning and i will save a lot of money and have a stronger box than an r33 gts-t anyway. (gtr internals are bigger than gts-t) if you actually have anything useful towards the cause i am working for then please let me know. cheers
  7. Hey all, Just about to start opening up my new found gtr gearbox and converting it to rear wheel drive only. was wondering if anyone has done this before, if so do you have any useful information for me. like what did you do for the driveshaft etc. Any help appreciated. also if anyone has modified any rb bellhousing to suit an sr, id like to some help there too. cheers Thanks Marcus
  8. Coolant Keeps Overflowing

    +1 for headgasket. do a Co2 test asap before you do any more damage. i had the same thing on my sr, blowing just over a litre out the radiator overflow bottle overflow every ten laps of drifting at taupo.
  9. had same problem on my misses car. there were four connections on the back of the gauge. ground, positive, sender and accessory. but they were labelled funny. positive and accessory were labelled fairly normal but ground and sender were what seemed backwards. G = Sender and WK = Ground. they were round the wrong way on her car as she thought G = Ground. fair enough assumption. but yeah thats all it was. if that doesnt work then try running fresh wiring (assuming that both the gauge and the sender unit are in good order that is)
  10. your comparing 2 totally different cars / setups on 2 different days, i dont see any relevence in that at all.. doesnt surprise me at all that YOU dont see any relevance. Thanks for YOUR comment tho pal. same dyno same weather conditions different cars, different intercoolers its was not a scientific test, just information with numbers instead of what most people write on here which is their mate's aunty's friend's husband's dog's neighbour's opinion. i forget that most people on here would have no idea in the world what inlet air temperature their car is running, to give them something to compare this data too. a further note to this which i probably should have added is i have seen a good ten other cars(all different kinds of nissans) go thru this same dyno all of them using unbranded intercoolers and all of them with inlet air temperatures climbing up over 30 degrees. some alot more over 30 degrees too. easiest and cheapest way to keep it nice and cold so far that we found apart from buying expensive intercooler is simply to hook up some window washer fluid squirters that face across your intercooler and let them fly a couple of seconds before your doing a drag race or drifting or even burnouts. hope this helps 'some' people
  11. You want actual fact numbers? i have a custom very-short piping kit which was expensive to get made and a cheap ($300) 500x300x100 intercooler. * my inlet air temperature ranges between 23-25 degrees when smashing out my s14 round one of our tracks here on a hot day. * my inlet air temperature got up to 37 degrees when it was on the dyno recently. * a good friend of mine who has a Trust Intercooler and a cheap piping kit on his r32 with a reasonably well modified rb25det. his car was on the same dyno last week and his inlet air temperature was at 18 degrees and stayed there for the whole time( about two hours). in my opinion, if your going for the best in everything or serious competition or someone else if paying for it for you then Trust or Apexi or Arc or Hks are the way to go. however if your like me, and have to work hard for your money and havent won lotto yet then a cheap well-made intercooler with the shortest possible piping kit (without compromising air flow with really tight bends) is the way to go.
  12. Not gettting oil pressure

    try pulling your oil filter off. filling it completely with oil and then putting it back on as quickly as possible, then cranking it over as you have done without spark. it generally puts enough oil into the right lines to prime the oil pump. altho sometimes even that doesnt work. last time i had to pour about half a litre of oil down my turbo feed line along with the slightest bit of air. it took ages but got pressure eventually.
  13. Difference in Tune

    dude, you need to write up the name of this shop. dont be afraid or care what other people think on here. its just your experience, and if i lived near you i would want to know so that i could either keep away from a shop like that or be very aware to get a written quote from them before getting any work done of any kind.
  14. 4 into 5 stud bolt-on spacers

    dont go 4 stud to 5 stud spacers. they are a terrible mod!!!!!! fork out the cash for a 5 stud conversion kit with 4pot front and 2pot rear brakes. you'll be so much better off in the long run. no risk of anything cracking or braking. and you'll be so much safer under braking. a 5 stud full conversion kit is a very neccessary mod for anyone who wants to drive fast and also stop safely.
  15. solid alloy subframe bushes?

    dont stuff around with alloy subframe collar bushes. just weld some 12mm plate steel with a hole in the middle to the top of all four of your bushes. you'll have to cut some of the rubber bush and the steel inside it down to make a flat surface to weld to but it works a treat and cost practically nothing. awesome mod and for nicks, providing u find some left over steel, a drill and a welder. made my drift car handle smoother. and go the lock diff, yeah.
×