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DrHoax

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About DrHoax

  • Rank
    227rwkw
  • Birthday 09/11/1984

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  • Website URL
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General Info

  • Location
    Australia NSW
  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Model
    S13 SR20DET Silvia
  1. Newcastle Spotted Thread

    Spotted a white s15 with red A-pillar gauges going into the uni tonight (tuesday) about 8:15.
  2. Noisy Hydraulic Lifter

    Fixed
  3. Hey all, I've got a red top SR20DET, and i think i have an oil pressure issue. I've read in a manual (it was a black top manual) that normal oil pressure at idle should be over 0.78 bar, and at 3200rpm it should be between 3.14 and 3.92 bar. With the car warmed up, at idle my engine has about 1.2bar, but at 3200rpm it's just below 2.5bar - i think at 3000rpm it sits about halfway between 2 and 2.5. So based on the figures i was reading in the manual, my idle oil pressure is fine, but my 3200rpm figure is pretty bad... this is with 10w60 oil. What sort of problem/s am i looking at if this is the case? Are we talking oil pump, bearing clearances, or something else? I did have my engine pulled apart recently to do the head gasket + timing chain... is it possible they haven't put something back together properly?
  4. Very long story, i originally gave it to one mechanic to do the chain and guides, which was done. I got it back with a bad clutch noise that it didn't have before (they took the engine out of the car to do the chain/guides). At this stage, because my clutch was getting old, i didn't want to take that back in to the same mechanic to pull the gearbox back out, because they could have very easily told me it was unrelated, and charged me for the work to get it fixed... seeming as my clutch was getting old anyway, and i didn't like it (orc 409 with lightened flywheel and no damper), i figured i'd just buy another clutch, get it changed over, and they could fix the problem at the time. I decided to go to another mechanic for this, and my car was then off the road for about 3 weeks between getting the chain/guides done and getting the clutch changed because i didn't know what this new clutch noise was (and i've had a clutch break on me before stranding me on the side of the road, so i was a bit paranoid of this happening again). Anyway, second mechanic changed the clutch, and noted that the thrust bearing had almost seized (was fine before the first mechanic took the engine out - second mechanic rekons they've degreased the bellhousing or something and not prepped it again properly). Anyway, get the car back and it seemed fine, but then i noticed the other noise (which i'm assuming is the chain noise). I can't think of anything to do with changing the clutch that would cause this noise (and it's coming from around the front of the engine, so no chance it's clutch related) - but with all that happening in the meantime, i didn't notice the noise until after i'd taken it to the second mechanic. There's no way now i'd be able to take it back to the first mechanic, because i can't prove it was them. Just sucks that it all happened the way it did, and honestly, i can't be bothered dealing with the first mechanic anyway, as you can probably appreciate i wouldn't want them working on my car again having f*cked me over this much.
  5. Yeah, i've changed to the S15 tensioner - i had an s15 tensioner to start with, but I've been having an issue recently where the chain is hitting the underneath of the rocker cover, so i'm replacing the tensioner as my first step to figuring out what's wrong. I had the timing chain and guides replaced (no top chain guide) not too long ago, and i've had the issue ever since (i can hear an intermittent tap/clack sound, that lasts for a few minutes after i've been driving a consistant speed of over 70km/h or so for about 5 mins or more - i assume this noise is the chain slapping against the rocker cover as the picture above indicates that it' been hitting it at some stage, and the noise is loudest at idle, and gets quieter as the revs increase - after a few minutes of making the noise it goes away again completely). They kept the same chain tensioner when i got the chain/guides changed (because it was already the s15 one) - however now that i've removed it, i've noticed that they've put shitloads of sealant on it to the extent that the sealant has actually made it's way up the tensioner (there's bits of sealant next to the o ring), and the teeth on the tensioner around where it's normally set to look pretty worn out. I'm not sure how the insides of the tensioner work as far as the oil pressure is concerned, but i'm thinking either some sealant might have ended up inside the tensioner and might be f*cking it up, or the worn teeth, or a combination of both? Not to mention that my engine's seen alot of km's so my oil pressure isn't what it used to be anymore... but this was still the case before i got the chain replaced, and i didn't have the noise then. If anyone's got any other ideas of what the noise is, i'm all ears - either way, i'll swap the tensioner around and see what happens. Thanks for all the help/advice so far.
  6. Thanks mate, this worked eventually (had to lean on it hard for a few seconds). I guess while i've got the thread open - i'm putting it all back together tomorrow morning. Seeming as i've already got the rocker cover off, i was just going to unlatch it with a screwdriver once it's in place - being spring loaded, i assume this should put the tension back in the chain, but are there any other precautions i should take? I've heard of having to rotate the engine a few times by hand before starting the engine, but is that necessary if i unlatch the tensioner myself? If i do still have to rotate the engine for any reason, does it necessarily have to be by hand, or can i disconnect the coilpacks and turn the engine with the starter a few times?
  7. Hey everyone, Sorry if this is a noob question, but honestly this is about the most mechanical thing i've ever done on a car, and i'm having trouble with it I'm trying to change my timing chain tensioner (S13 red top sr20det), and the damn thing won't come out. I've removed the two nuts that are holding it in, and i've got the rocker cover off to be able to see what i'm doing and hopefully make putting the new one in a bit easier, but i really can't seem to get the old one out, it's in very securely... One thing i've noticed - i know they have their own gasket, but mine appears to be installed with sealant of some kind also. All the diagrams i've looked at and the service manual for sr20's don't indicate that you're supposed to apply sealant to it - so firstly, should sealant be used for the tensioner or not, secondly is it causing my problem, and thirdly, how do i get the damn thing out? I've tried levering it out, but there isn't enough space between the tensioner and the head to push a screwdriver into, and i can only get to the front of the tensioner with a razor blade to cut away the sealant. Any ideas on what i can do would be greatly appreciated.
  8. AAMI Bulldust

    I'm sure JCI would have helped cover your arse if you had paid your excess, which I'm guessing would have been more than the $600 that was being demanded from you. Instead, you decide to rip up and ignore letters that are pretty clear in stating that they will take legal action if you don't respond. What would you have expected JCI to do for you anyway? They have someone telling them that your car ran into their customer. They no doubt had a report or possibly a witness stating that they saw your car do the damage. You would have needed to show that it was not your car then. It might be tough luck, but it happens, and this is why there are lots of innocent people in jail - the other parties might be making stuff up, but they are believable and so the accused loses. Why should i pay anymore for them to cover my ass...what the heck does 1800 bux a year cover ??? why the heck would i wanna pay excess if from the second i got on the phone the customer service rep was of no aid? I expect MY insurance company to at least support my claim as thats what i pay them for. I have pics of my car showing it in show condition with not a single scratch on it....now for the damage they accused me off, my car should have been fairly banged up. The shit AAMI tried to pull on me, when i asked what kind of car i was in, she said its a silver nissan with the plate XXXXXX and i said fair enough, so anyone who drives past me can give u that description, anything else? AAMi rep said oh she had you contact number as well. My reply was so there was a for sale sticker on my rear windscreen, so she may have copied it down....she doesnt have my name / address...u guys got that from another source im guessing as the letter sent to me has my full name thats on my birth cert and not the name i go by...good effort. I asked if they had a witness or photos taken on a camera phone from the scene, which the reply was yes we do and i said take me to court id love to see this, because u got jack shit on me and are hoping i buckle...end of conversion A few letters later (which had mismatched desciptions of the damage and also two different case reference numbers) the letters stopped. MORAL: it showed me i can lodge a bullshit claim so long as i can give a car model and matching plate, which i can get anytime i see a car on the road and lodge a claim and its upto them to fight it and hope they buckle and pay. AAMI can burn, lying f**kers!!! I don't work in the insurance industry, so i don't know for sure how things normally work there - but in my industry, after things have gone to a debt collection agency and money still hasn't been paid the letters definately stop - only because it's been listed as a default on that person's credit history - basically f*cking you over for the next 7 years if you try to get finance/credit of any kind... If they still genuinely believe that you owe them the money, i dunno if they'd just give up like that... might want to check your credit file to make sure they haven't listed it against you. http://www.mycreditfile.com.au/home/home_default.aspx - go to the "my credit file" tab at the top, and down the bottom of the new page there are details on how you can get the report for free (takes up to 10 working days), otherwise you can get it in 1 day for $30 or something. Hopefully they haven't and they've just given up... but if they haven't and you've got a default, it's better to find out now and sort it out sooner rather than later. If there's something there and you dispute it, then it can end up getting removed from your credit history completely - otherwise it stays there for 7 years even if you pay it, it just changes to a paid default instead of an unpaid default...
  9. Driving under street lights

    ? Never heard of that before, and none of the street lights near my place do that. What would be the point of a streetlight that can't be left on all through the night? What if there was a pedestrian accident because the lights over a pedestrian crossing were "cooling down" at the time? I'd say it'd be due to alot of street lights using a ripple control receiver to be turned on and off (definately in sydney and many other parts of NSW and QLD - might be different in other parts of the country). The ripple control devices detect a certain frequency that is intentionally distributed via the electricity in the powerlines at the necessary times to operate things like street lights, off peak hot water systems, etc. Usually the signals used are 750hz, or more often 1050hz. I'm pretty sure these frequencies are audible (anyone want to confirm that one for me?). I always notice it happening as i drive under street lights in my silvia - never in a quiet car. So we've got people saying it happens when they drive around in loud cars - people saying loud subs cause it - so to me, the ripple controllers in the streetlights are picking up external sounds/frequencies, and assuming they're detecting the on/off ripple frequency and turning the light off.
  10. Newcastle Spotted Thread

    Were you in your car? Didn't see it... or hear it for that matter That was the first time i've been into the foreshore in about a year. Was pretty quiet considering it was a nice day.
  11. Newcastle Spotted Thread

    Spotted Lewy on Sunday arvo driving along beaumont st past Cold Rock. I was inside having a regular vanilla with mini m&m's
  12. ISC CUSTOMER FEEDBACK

    Ordered the Tein tie rods and tie rod ends, paid via bank transfer on tuesday, parts arrived thursday. Good service, fast delivery, parts as described, so i'd definately deal with ISC performance again.
  13. Would this be intermittent though? And why would it only happen after i've been driving at high speed/rpm for a while? I've had the top chain guide removed, and had the two other guides replaced at the same time as i did the timing chain. Didn't do the chain tensioner, because i did that a while ago.
  14. Hey all I just had the engine out of my car to do a head gasket change, as well as timing chain etc. Anyway, long story short, engine's back in now, and it's making a weird noise. It's a loud clacking sound, which it only makes after i've been driving at a sustained rpm, usually anywhere higher than 2500rpm travelling at about 80-110km/h for at least a few minutes, with the engine fully warmed up. Along with the clacking sound, i have a misfire - only occurs when the clacking is happening. I only notice the sound when i'm then slowing down from that speed, for example getting to traffic lights or something similar, and the rpm is alot lower. The clacking is definately rpm related, it's loudest at low rpm (really loud, echoes off of surrounding cars), the higher the rpm goes the faster the clacking is, but it gets quieter as the engine revs higher, and turns into a fast ticking sound over 2500ish rpm. Then - it goes away again, after i've been driving slower (at a lower rpm - 2000ish) for a few minutes. By the time I get home through side streets, it's always gone, and it's idling perfectly without the misfire. I've done two oil changes today - with the first oil change, i'd only done a few hundred kilometers since the headgasket got changed/new timing chain etc, and the oil was really dark, and there was sludge on the sump plug. I then put in new oil, took it for a drive, and it did it again. Took it home again and ran an oil flush through it, changed the oil yet again, and have put an additive in the oil which frees up lifters etc (says it can take up to 14 days to be effective). I've since taken it for another drive, and same thing as before: *only happens when the engine is fully warmed up. *clacking at idle/low rpm after driving at rpm higher than 2500/3000 for at least a few minutes, with an accompanying misfire. *becomes more of a quieter ticking sound when revved higher than 2500ish rpm. *when it has occured after driving for a few minutes at higher rpm, it goes away after a minute or two of slower driving, and the misfire goes away also. *doesn't occur at all when i'm only driving around at slower speeds, at lower rpm. Wtf is the go? The clacking sound is pretty much exactly the same as when I cold-start the engine, before the oil pressure builds up, it clacks for a few seconds. But when the above problem is occuring, oil pressure is still present (aftermarket oil pressure gauge).
  15. Cruise Ideas/ After Chrissy

    My car's back on the road again after having a blown headgasket and then a clutch bearing problem. A month or two later, and a new headgasket, new timing chain, new clutch - not to mention a much lighter wallet, I'm keen for a cruise
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