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Everything posted by Charbz

  1. Hey guys, I've searched google, as well as this forum and I can't seem to find much information about this. A couple of weeks ago, I had some symptoms which, after some reading around/research, lead me to believe that my intake valve stem seals were gone (white smoke on a cold start, backfiring with white puffs when the car is cold and taken to about 5k+, and there was one instance where I had been driving quite a bit during the day, and I was idle at the lights and smoke started pouring out of the exhaust). I took it to my mechanic who says he did a compression test, and found that one of my cyclinders was putting out a relatively low figure. He said he feared that even if I fixed the seals, there may be damage to the bottom end of the engine which may not be apparent until after, which would cost heaps more to fix. So as a temporary fix, while I decided what I want to do, he put some thicker oil and an oil additive in. Last night, I took my car to my cousin's house and we did another compression test, and it was all perfect - low 150's at all four. I'm just wondering what anyone can tell me about the long-term outcome from this sort of fix? Is the problem still there but just covered up, or has it been knocked back into full functionality? Is it possible that my mechanic may have made a mistake in his compression test? Of course, I would assume that a fix that simple seems too good to be true, but my car is running beautifully and I'm not getting anymore burned oil out of the exhaust or anything. Any help or insight regarding this problem is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Charlie.
  2. UPDATE: Hey all, I went and got my car dyno checked today, the dyno figures are below (a before and after). My mechanic seems to think that if nothing showed up during the dyno run, with the figures that we got in the after run, and if the compression is fine, the smoke should be nothing to worry about. The guy was very, VERY knowledgeable - he really seemed to know his stuff. To get from the before to the after, we basically changed the spark plugs and readjusted the knock sensor (it was bringing up an error in Nistune, I think it is). Thanks for all the feedback and comments. It all gave me much insight. Charlie.
  3. Thanks mate. I'm not too sure about what grade of oil he used, but he told me it was thicker, and he used an additive. Previously, I was using 10w/40. Hopefully the leak down test will give me a better idea about whether it's the piston rings or the turbo seal. If it would idle fine and drive smooth before boost before the thicker oil was put in, could that be an indication that it could be the turbo seal? (it's worth noting that there was smoke on a cold start, and if I revved it out after a 10 minute idle, I'd get a smoke puff)
  4. I'm going to get a dyno check done and a leak down test as well next week, so as soon as I have the results I'll postem up. Thanks for all the replies, it's been a lot of food for thought.
  5. I'm not too sure what you mean by knocking - is there any chance you can elaborate?
  6. @blimp - no offence taken mate, thanks for your input. I'm still in the learning process about mechanical issues, so correcting me if I'm wrong in an assumption is appreciated. I only just learned what wet/dry compression tests were last night, so I appreciate any input. That's an interesting thought, but throughout all the reading I've done, given my cars exact symptoms, this is the first I'm hearing about turbo seal problems, so it's hard for me to picture. My mechanic seems to think the turbo is in good shape as well. @beno - thanks for your detailed reply. It makes sense now that it's just covering up the problem that's there. Assuming that it's not a problem at the turbo as blimp said, would getting my piston rings replaced fix the problem, seeing as how the problem is gone since my oil is thicker now so there's no leakage into the piston chamber, or would it be possible that the thicker oil could also be covering up a problem in the bottom of the motor? Sorry if that's a dumb question, I'm just putting together what I think I know in the hopes of a better understanding. Charlie.
  7. Yeah, I'd have to agree, it's the clutch. Felt the same thing when my clutch was going.
  8. Correct me if I'm wrong guys, but my understanding is this: the clutch you bought is designed to grab the flywheel much more solidly, and maintain a grip much more reliably, hence increasing the potential stress (and generally moreso at higher rpm, practical stress) on the gearbox because it'll cop a lot more shock from the impact between the flywheel/clutch... Anyone wanna correct/verify?
  9. Hey all, I've been trying to read around on the internet about what I should do, but there doesn't seem to be too much information, so I have a few questions: 1) Do I have to replace both front springs if I'm going to replace one? 2) I'm not sure about what type of suspension setup I have (I was told "Adjustable Tein Suspension"), so is there any way of finding out, and, if so, would it really make a difference to the type of spring I buy? 3) How hard is it to replace myself? If it helps at all, the springs are green and the shock absorbers (I think that's what they are: cylinders below the spring?) are red. If anymore info is required, just let me know. Thankyou very much for any help that you may offer, it's much appreciated. Charbz.
  10. Also, what are those little alan-key screws on the top of the suspension setup for? It's real hard to find out any information about Tein suspension online.
  11. Here are some pictures I took. Is it odd that the brown ring at the top has a Ford symbol on it?
  12. Delete this please. Accidental repost.
  13. help with amp

    just a thought... are your positive/ground mixed up on your amp?... happened to me once, and this situation sounds familiar...
  14. Hi guys... Usually when I've got an issue with my car, I search hard until I find an answer, but this time I really don't know where to start. I may not be able to articulate my problems very well, but if anyone can make sense of it and help me out, I would be extremely appreciative. I'll start from the top: 1) I'm hearing a puffing sound when I accelerate, no matter what rpm I'm at. I've had the car for about 3 years, and it only started about two months ago, but gradually got worse. Now it's a harsh puffing. 2) After a while of driving my car in one sitting, it feels like the clutch is slipping, or there is a massive loss of power. The longer I drive, the more it slips/loses power. It feels as though there's a correllation between this and the temperature, because off of a cold start, it goes generally fine, and when it heats up it starts to happen. Yesterday morning, the day was extremely hot, and the slipping/power loss started straight off the bat. I've been told several things: airflow meter problem, clutch wearing out, and air leak. I've been told it can't be the airflow meter because it's not constant, and my car idles fine. I'm sceptical about it being the clutch because I had an exedy heavy duty clutch installed less than 5,000 km's ago and I haven't been punishing it at all (although for a good few months I had a few problems with my clutch seals - apparently both after my mechanics closer inspection, which needed to be replaced, as I was having to top-up my fluid every few days. Yes, stupid, I know, but my lifestyle is extremely busy). Again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Charlie.
  15. Am I right in saying that the t2 gasket sits within the space described by spazo? If so, it makes sense, because it did sound like it was coming from that area when I lifted the bonnet. My dilemma though is that It's not constant. This morning I drove to uni fine, and only started having issues when I was almost there - after it had heated up a bit. Could it still be the afm, despite this? I honestly don't have a day off where I can chase this up - I pretty much depend on my mechanic who works out of home, but has been overseas for a couple of months. I'll keep all this in mind though, and if it's not something as simple as the afm or knock sensor, or even the clutch, I'll follow this up. Thanks for all your help guys, anymore thoughts or theories?
  16. component speakers

    I'm running a pair of these now and have been for a long time - I'm real happy with them. Clarity is relatively good at higher volumes.
  17. Alpine or Pioneer

    Hey, I can't give you a great comparison, but I can tell you that I've had a Pioneer P1Y head unit for a good 4 years or so now, and I've been extremely happy with it. Looks slick, can tune my sounds with enough flexibility to keep me happy, and able to list all the tracks on an mp3 cd - which is a deal closer for me.
  18. Headlights not working?

    Yeah, i did the whole fault finding sh*t aswell( LH highbeam, now both highbeam not working) The stalk or control box was my last place to look and have read that it is common aswell. I was just going to see how much it would take to replace the unit. thanks for that read. Only if i could get the pics. Looks like i might have to get Word after all. OpenOffice FTW
  19. Don't quote me on this, but I've read around that blue smoke is a result of a turbo issue.
  20. How to get paid

    My 180 got broken into the other day the same way, dirty c**ts stole my amp, sub, ashtray and lighter... Left my door without a hinge or window... In the security work carpark of all places! So not funny! BTW Racism = Wrong, there's good and bad in every race!
  21. What's your asking price for the s15 gearbox?
  22. any ideas?

    Sorry to but in, but I'd like advice about a clutch too - same as the thread starter, for street application (but I'd prefer very durable - good for a slight hiding). Not looking for a massive power increase at any stage. Might as well keep it contained in the one thread to create a good reference point for other people looking for clutches
  23. As the title suggests, what is the procedure I would follow to obtain engineering certificates for my car, and what is the pricing structure for these certificates? Any reply would be greatly appreciated.
  24. audio help in my 180

    it's a good idea - my 180 is hooked up like that and massive engine noise. no damage to the rca's whatsoever, i installed myself. just given up and accepted.
  25. Ohms

    now im not an expert but i do know a couple things here n there, so i'll try my best to answer ya.. ohms are a measure of resistance. when its said that an amp can operate at x amount of watts on y amount of ohms, it means if there is a load with a resistance of y ohms, the load will actually be operating with x watts actually reaching it. series and parrallel are different ways of connecting a circuit or subcircuit. to connect a circuit in series is to connect the load one after the other, basically in a straight line, where there's no breakoffs. in a parallel circuit, the circuit splits up and then the loads are connected within these splits, then the splits meet back up at some point. for example, if you were to connect the positive on the amp to the positive on the sub, then the negative on the sub to the positive on another sub, then the negative on that sub to the negative on the same channel on the amp, that would be a series connection. if you were to connect the positive on the amp with two seperate wires to the positives on the subs, and the negative on the amp with two seperate wires to the negatives on the subs, this would be a parrallel connection. this i'm not so sure about. i'm pretty sure its possible, but as far as i know and have heard, doing so isn't exactly the safest option. don't know why, just heard it somewhere.. what kind of mtx sub is it? is it dual voice coil (i.e. does it have two positive terminals and two negative terminals)? what type of amp is this 4 channel amp?