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About Charbz

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  • Birthday 01/30/1987

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  • Location
    Australia NSW
  • Gender
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    Nissan 180SX
  • Occupation
  1. UPDATE: Hey all, I went and got my car dyno checked today, the dyno figures are below (a before and after). My mechanic seems to think that if nothing showed up during the dyno run, with the figures that we got in the after run, and if the compression is fine, the smoke should be nothing to worry about. The guy was very, VERY knowledgeable - he really seemed to know his stuff. To get from the before to the after, we basically changed the spark plugs and readjusted the knock sensor (it was bringing up an error in Nistune, I think it is). Thanks for all the feedback and comments. It all gave me much insight. Charlie.
  2. Thanks mate. I'm not too sure about what grade of oil he used, but he told me it was thicker, and he used an additive. Previously, I was using 10w/40. Hopefully the leak down test will give me a better idea about whether it's the piston rings or the turbo seal. If it would idle fine and drive smooth before boost before the thicker oil was put in, could that be an indication that it could be the turbo seal? (it's worth noting that there was smoke on a cold start, and if I revved it out after a 10 minute idle, I'd get a smoke puff)
  3. I'm going to get a dyno check done and a leak down test as well next week, so as soon as I have the results I'll postem up. Thanks for all the replies, it's been a lot of food for thought.
  4. I'm not too sure what you mean by knocking - is there any chance you can elaborate?
  5. @blimp - no offence taken mate, thanks for your input. I'm still in the learning process about mechanical issues, so correcting me if I'm wrong in an assumption is appreciated. I only just learned what wet/dry compression tests were last night, so I appreciate any input. That's an interesting thought, but throughout all the reading I've done, given my cars exact symptoms, this is the first I'm hearing about turbo seal problems, so it's hard for me to picture. My mechanic seems to think the turbo is in good shape as well. @beno - thanks for your detailed reply. It makes sense now that it's just covering up the problem that's there. Assuming that it's not a problem at the turbo as blimp said, would getting my piston rings replaced fix the problem, seeing as how the problem is gone since my oil is thicker now so there's no leakage into the piston chamber, or would it be possible that the thicker oil could also be covering up a problem in the bottom of the motor? Sorry if that's a dumb question, I'm just putting together what I think I know in the hopes of a better understanding. Charlie.
  6. Hey guys, I've searched google, as well as this forum and I can't seem to find much information about this. A couple of weeks ago, I had some symptoms which, after some reading around/research, lead me to believe that my intake valve stem seals were gone (white smoke on a cold start, backfiring with white puffs when the car is cold and taken to about 5k+, and there was one instance where I had been driving quite a bit during the day, and I was idle at the lights and smoke started pouring out of the exhaust). I took it to my mechanic who says he did a compression test, and found that one of my cyclinders was putting out a relatively low figure. He said he feared that even if I fixed the seals, there may be damage to the bottom end of the engine which may not be apparent until after, which would cost heaps more to fix. So as a temporary fix, while I decided what I want to do, he put some thicker oil and an oil additive in. Last night, I took my car to my cousin's house and we did another compression test, and it was all perfect - low 150's at all four. I'm just wondering what anyone can tell me about the long-term outcome from this sort of fix? Is the problem still there but just covered up, or has it been knocked back into full functionality? Is it possible that my mechanic may have made a mistake in his compression test? Of course, I would assume that a fix that simple seems too good to be true, but my car is running beautifully and I'm not getting anymore burned oil out of the exhaust or anything. Any help or insight regarding this problem is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Charlie.
  7. Yeah, I'd have to agree, it's the clutch. Felt the same thing when my clutch was going.
  8. Correct me if I'm wrong guys, but my understanding is this: the clutch you bought is designed to grab the flywheel much more solidly, and maintain a grip much more reliably, hence increasing the potential stress (and generally moreso at higher rpm, practical stress) on the gearbox because it'll cop a lot more shock from the impact between the flywheel/clutch... Anyone wanna correct/verify?
  9. Also, what are those little alan-key screws on the top of the suspension setup for? It's real hard to find out any information about Tein suspension online.
  10. Here are some pictures I took. Is it odd that the brown ring at the top has a Ford symbol on it?
  11. Hey all, I've been trying to read around on the internet about what I should do, but there doesn't seem to be too much information, so I have a few questions: 1) Do I have to replace both front springs if I'm going to replace one? 2) I'm not sure about what type of suspension setup I have (I was told "Adjustable Tein Suspension"), so is there any way of finding out, and, if so, would it really make a difference to the type of spring I buy? 3) How hard is it to replace myself? If it helps at all, the springs are green and the shock absorbers (I think that's what they are: cylinders below the spring?) are red. If anymore info is required, just let me know. Thankyou very much for any help that you may offer, it's much appreciated. Charbz.
  12. Delete this please. Accidental repost.
  13. help with amp

    just a thought... are your positive/ground mixed up on your amp?... happened to me once, and this situation sounds familiar...
  14. Am I right in saying that the t2 gasket sits within the space described by spazo? If so, it makes sense, because it did sound like it was coming from that area when I lifted the bonnet. My dilemma though is that It's not constant. This morning I drove to uni fine, and only started having issues when I was almost there - after it had heated up a bit. Could it still be the afm, despite this? I honestly don't have a day off where I can chase this up - I pretty much depend on my mechanic who works out of home, but has been overseas for a couple of months. I'll keep all this in mind though, and if it's not something as simple as the afm or knock sensor, or even the clutch, I'll follow this up. Thanks for all your help guys, anymore thoughts or theories?
  15. Hi guys... Usually when I've got an issue with my car, I search hard until I find an answer, but this time I really don't know where to start. I may not be able to articulate my problems very well, but if anyone can make sense of it and help me out, I would be extremely appreciative. I'll start from the top: 1) I'm hearing a puffing sound when I accelerate, no matter what rpm I'm at. I've had the car for about 3 years, and it only started about two months ago, but gradually got worse. Now it's a harsh puffing. 2) After a while of driving my car in one sitting, it feels like the clutch is slipping, or there is a massive loss of power. The longer I drive, the more it slips/loses power. It feels as though there's a correllation between this and the temperature, because off of a cold start, it goes generally fine, and when it heats up it starts to happen. Yesterday morning, the day was extremely hot, and the slipping/power loss started straight off the bat. I've been told several things: airflow meter problem, clutch wearing out, and air leak. I've been told it can't be the airflow meter because it's not constant, and my car idles fine. I'm sceptical about it being the clutch because I had an exedy heavy duty clutch installed less than 5,000 km's ago and I haven't been punishing it at all (although for a good few months I had a few problems with my clutch seals - apparently both after my mechanics closer inspection, which needed to be replaced, as I was having to top-up my fluid every few days. Yes, stupid, I know, but my lifestyle is extremely busy). Again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Charlie.