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About dave1600

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  1. matching cam caps

    Not a good idea to swap them around. If you really want to, here's a few options to try - Assemble and torque them down without the cam in place, then use a bore guage / inside micrometers / etc to check that they a "round", not slightly oval. Assemble with the cam in, but no valves / springs / etc, torque caps down and see if it the cam spins freely. If not, swap caps around and repeat till cam spins freely. If you don't mind spending money, your best bet is to take it to a machine shop, get a whisker taken off the joining surfaces of the caps, then get it line bored. Google "conrod reconditioning" to see what I mean.
  2. Clutch Slave Question

    There's nothing technical about them - if you can't get one easily, grab a bolt of roughly the correct diameter, cut it down to the correct length as per above pic, round the ends a little, and away you go.
  3. Probably due to the auto transmission's ability to handle the engine's output. Nissan didn't consider the auto transmission able to handle the higher output so de-tuned the engine in the auto-equipped cars. Didn't need to de-tune the ADM engine to match the auto, as its already de-tuned compared to the JDM version.
  4. Its nothing real flash - was an old rally car before I got it around 20 years ago, now in track spec. Still runs an L18 engine (basically a 180B engine, same as the original 1600 engine but with a slightly larger bore and stroke). Still runs SU carbs, although now they are 44mm rather than the stock 38mm, and are original British made SU's rather than Jap made copies. Runs a Subaru RX turbo clutch pack LSD (RX turbo, not WRX, the earlier boxy things from the 80's). Exactly the same diff as the original 1600 one, bolt the Datto output flanges onto the Subie one, bolt the diff into the car and away you go. Has plenty of headwork (which is what gets the old L-series engines going), flattop pistons, bigger valves, 72 degree cam, all the usual stuff, and pumps out a massive 102hp at the rear wheels. Due to the limited power, I really need to make the most of it, hence mucking around to get the S15 box in just to take advantage of the quite good ratios. Despite them being regarded as a bit fragile behind big power engines, they really are quite a nice box, good close ratios - certainly better thsn the 5 speeds. And 102hp isn't going to break it anytime soon The rest is basic stuff, Tokico "green" rally shocks and strut inserts (the bee's knees in the 80's ), huge 250mm diameter 240K front brakes, rear drum brakes, upgraded dual circuit brake master cylinder (the original one looks pretty much like a clutch master), extended lower control arms to give around 4 1/2 degrees neg camber. Handles pretty well, brakes OK due to weighing in under 900 kg, its just heaps of fun. Still in its original colour, even has a lot of the original Datsun factory paint from 1970.
  5. Used the blown box to "experiment" (didn't want to lash out good money if it wasn't going to fit in the 1600), then once I was happy I swapped the modified bellhousing onto a good box I got from a guy in Melbourne. So I still have another S15 bellhousing in the shed, might make another "conversion" bellhousing or two to sell once I've fully tested mine. Might even start looking around to buy a few more "blown" boxes to get the bellhousings. It's only gone a few k's around the local streets so far, but will get properly tested this weekend, I'm entered in the 6 hour relay at Phillip Island. Its a surreal combination though, engine design from the 60's and bellhousing from 40 years later with two more gears than original.
  6. Nope, QStarz bluetooth GPS unit / Racechrono on an old Nokia phone. I might lash out on an electronic speedo sometime and set up a sensor on the tailshaft, or might be lazy and persist with racechrono. Its pretty much track-only nowadays anyway, only gets driven on the street a few times a year. The S15 box seems to be a big improvement, no more massive hole between 2nd and 3rd. Cheap-ish way to get a close ratio box without lashing out on a Hollinger / Kameari / etc gearset for the old L-series box.
  7. Tapped it down carefully - all good ! Thanks guys.
  8. Nothing that actually holds the boot in. Just a lip as you mention, and a circlip holding the shifter in. There is a nylon bush on the shifter itself, that's about it.
  9. I bought the shifter and the box itself seperately, so it was already apart. I've had it in and out a few times, just pulls out when I pull the shifter out. But that could be because its not all the way in. Will look for the workshop manual, but it sounds like I need to drive the lower boot in further.
  10. Just finished fitting a 6 speed to my old datto 1600, but I'm not sure how the top rubber boot / seal / thingy (arrowed in the pic) attaches ? Is it attached to the transmission shifter "tower", or does it attach to the centre console in an S15 ? If it attaches to the shifter "tower", how does it attach ? What are the grooves around the top of the "tower" for ?
  11. Seniors should display senior driving plates?

    I'm basing my opinion on documented data from across Australia, rather than what is probably an extremely small sample, from a very localised area (ie your police LCA ) and extrapolating it to cover all older people across the country. I'm not trying to be argumentative, I just see "S" plates as another knee-jerk, quick fix from the govt, so they can be seen to be doing something (even if it isn't any use). Similar to some of the p-plate restrictions (although some of these are probably valid in reducing the road toll, others aren't).
  12. Seniors should display senior driving plates?

    He should check his figures. In 2008 (last time Australia-wide figures were published), over 70's accounted for 98 deaths out of a total of 694. On the other hand,17-25 year olds account for 181 out of 694 (nearly double the over 70's and the worst age group). 60-69 year olds are statistically the safest on the road (well, after "L" platers) Males accounted for 516 out of 694. If you think seniors should display "S" plates, perhaps all guys should display "M" plates to show that a male is driving since we are so much more likely to cause a fatal accident ? Seniors are currently the most "tested" of drivers - annual medicals from age 75, and two-yearly driving tests from age 85. I honestly don't believe that displaying "S" plates will achieve anything. It is up to seniors, their doctors and their families to recognise when it is time to hand in their licence and cease driving. A plastic letter on the car won't achieve anything. In the above mentioned exampes of seniors turning onto the wrong side of the road, etc - is it going to make a difference if they do this with an "S" plate on the car or without one ? No. It is a problem that is extremely difficult to deal with (I recently had to take my elderly father's licence off him, one of the harder things I've ever done), but a simplistic solution like this is just a token gesture.
  13. Hydro hand brake in a s13

    Your choice to ignore troubleshooting suggestions that are extremely easy to carry out and will eliminate a very common cause of poor hydro performance...... Fair chance that means its bled properly and the cause is something other than hydraulics.
  14. Hydro hand brake in a s13

    If you're driving along, gently apply the footbrake and the puul up the hydro handbrake. Does the footbrake pedal get harder when you apply the hydro ?