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revhead90

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About revhead90

  • Rank
    Standard Member

General Info

  • Location
    Australia VIC
  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    2002 s15 Spec R GT
  • Occupation
    Student
  1. Price : $20 Condition : New BUMP
  2. plumbed back bov question

    my car is all stock. when the weather is cooler i get the slightest "psshh" noise when changing gears (hardly noticeable) and ever so slightly louder when changing at near red line. so i would say it is normal seeing as pressurised air needs to go somewhere when you slam the throttle shut.
  3. Price : $20 Condition : New BUMP
  4. Price : $20 Condition : New BUMP
  5. Price : $20 Condition : New Change of plans for my s15, and just became a student again so I am selling what I won’t need anymore Everything listed below is BRAND NEW, straight from the factory, never used, never opened, original packaging and receipts for proof of purchase. Only selling because I actually no longer need them. I won’t be further modifying my car. V3 Suspension arms by GKTech: SOLD! Rear Traction Rods - rrp. $169. Selling for $150 Rear Toe Arms - rrp. $199. Selling for $180 Rear Camber Arms - rrp. $219. Selling for $200 Front Caster Arms - rrp. $199. Selling for $180 All above arms are 10% off the current retail price, plus, you won’t have to pay for shipping as long as you are located in Melbounre can post for you no problem. All above arms total at $710. If you pick them all up I will let them go for $650 just so they all go in one hit. That is a massive saving if you where to purchase them all now for $786 plus postage from GKTech. Extended Studs 30mm long, 13mm Knurl (s15 rear) - rrp. $26. Selling for $20 Extended studs 30mm long, 14.3mm Knurl (s15 front) - rrp. $26. Selling for $20 Take both of them for $30. Location: Bulleen 3105 (near Doncaster, Templestowe area) Melbourne, Vic Price: Firm. these are brand new, never used. just like you would get from GKTech only you are paying less and don't need to pay for postage Contact: PM here, comment, see me at G.O.R MelbS15 cruise on the 2nd Feb, or Mobile 0432 109 833 (text only please) Delivery: Pick up preferred, can post upon agreement Payment: CASH, Direct deposit if posting. Would much rather sell the arms as a set than have to part them out, they are fantastic quality arms, you get a genuine warranty from a local Australian manufacturer, unbelievable price for what they are. I am actually quite sad I never got to install them and enjoy them on the road! (not letting me upload photos now, will try again soon or text me for pics) Thank you.
  6. Lots of useful help here, thanks and just want to clear this up first, I NEVER excessively speed. Yes, I may get to 120 on an on ramp but quickly slow down before merging, and yes I speed a bit when overtaking up in the mountains... shoot me. Haha. lots of usefully info. I did lots of research on gear oil and reading through engineering reports so I think the oil I chose is well up to the task. the gearbox operates fine in regular driving. I tend to rev match down shift when I can (not heal and toe, not safe on the street) with zero crunching. when I shift very quick (1 to 2 to 3) gearbox is like magic, very smooth. But 3 to 4 when the gearbox is at high rotation speed, that is where the crunch/notching occurs. I have extreme difficulty with reverse. I must use two hands to engage the gear with it sometimes failing to engage even though the shifter seems to be in the reverse position so must have another go. Could this be a link the the problem? Next service I will leave the current gear oil in as it is only 3000kms old. However I will change the engine and gear box mounts and see what that does (nismo items?). If I have filled the gear box with the correct amount to the spill point, how much exactly do I add to over fill it through the top of the shift turret? I know how to access this because I have changed the shift bushing to a metal brass item in the past (this made no difference to shift feel by the way, waste of time and fiddly). thanks for the help, I like reading helpful and positive comments on this forum
  7. I have noticed that when changing gears (s15 6 speed spec r) from 3rd to 4th during day to day driving I sometimes get a slight crunch vibration feeling through the shifter. I took this as me messing up a shift, maybe releasing the clutch too soon or something. But as I have become more confident with the car and enjoying some hard acceleration (freeway on ramp etc..) when travelling at a decent speed and rpms up near the 6k+ range and I go to change from 3rd to 4th I get a very noticeable crunch vibration which can be quite harsh feeling through the shifter in my hand accompanied by an audible crunch noise (not as bad as a dodgy gear change, just a deep sounding crunch/vibration) Shifts perfectly 95% of the time during standard driving. Is it maybe my clutch not coping with the higher revs/speed of the engine/transmission? Syncros? Overfill gearbox maybe? (Castrol Syntrans 75w85 gl4 full synthetic fluid, filled to fill plug spillage level according to manual about 3000km ago) Any help would be great, don't want to inadvertently damage my car. Also getting a vibration in the centre of the dash at high driving rpms. Probably unrelated and due to poor fitting of aftermarket stereo by previous owner but though I would mention. thanks.
  8. Yeah pedders said the car is spotless underneath and the shocks are in perfect new order and the bushes are sweet which is good to hear. Loud clunk in the rear is apparently my exhaust hitting the car right behind the rear muffler. Still getting the squeaking though. Will definitely loosen up those lca bolts and then re torque it, see how that goes. Might be difficult without access to a ramp or lift though. When I'm at my mates tyre shop again I'll give it ago
  9. Thanks mate. I will look into those when I get my arms installed. Pretty sure its got something to do with my lca bushes as I get a couple of little knocks as I come down my drive way. I assume its the lca settling into a grove in the bush. Sound goes away until the next time I take the car out of the garage after it has sat for a while.
  10. Yeah I am currently waiting for the v3 arms from gktech. So maybe I should hold off until I install those, or just install others not related to those arms? Those two types you have used, are they polyurethane or some other oem replacement rubber?
  11. Thanks stuss, I really don't know anything about differentials so that is peace of mind for me know. Cheers.
  12. Thanks for that tip bling, I will give that a go. And I will be replacing the bushes at some stage so I'll see what pedders suggest, probably rip me off should I go with polyurethane or is there another product out there?
  13. I don't "do skids" what part of that didn't you understand haha. Ah ok sweet, thanks guys. Guess I will just need to be aware of those one wheel situations haha. Just a street car with maybe 4 track days a year max. I like grip, not sideways into a tree
  14. So after my coilover install I went to fill up the petrol tank, as I was slowly going up the steep entry ramp and due to the stiffer springs one of my rear wheels lifted off the ground and I started to free wheel and couldn't move. Eventually took a run up and made it. I thought I had an lsd? Do they not work very effectively in this type of situation? Could my lsd be damaged? Don't tell me to rip a skid to find out haha. I'm not that sort of person and I won't do it so don't bother telling me otherwise. Is there some definitive way to observe to condition of this specific Nissan lsd, 2002 s15 spec r gt aus. cheers.
  15. However I was not able to located the squeaking and the knocking. I have booked an inspection at pedders as I have a feeling it's probably due to some deterioration in the bushing that is being exaggerated buy the stiffer coilovers.
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